Day 118 14/01/2015

We woke to mixed weather, with the clouds still low enough to shroud the highest mountain tops. The forecast was mixed but there were no thunderstorms predicted so we brushed off our hiking boots and headed into the centre of Halls Gap. After a poached egg breakfast in the local cafe and getting lunch and fruit at the bakery and supermarket, we headed off. Our objective for the day was to walk up a prominent peak which has great views called the Pinnacle. We had a choice of routes and decided on the one that took us passed Venus Baths and Splitter Falls. We were soon climbing through lush vegetation over rocks hewn from volcanic rock and limestone. It wasn't long before we got to the Grand Canyon, just above the Wonderland car park (no cafe or mad Hatter here though!), where most other people started their walk from. We checked that it was safe to go through the canyon as the last few days rain could have made it prone to flash floods and as there was no escape once in it, we wanted to make sure! It was a lovely little canyon (I think the Americans would have something to say about it being grand) and we were through it far too quickly. Our route then took us over boulders and strong looking rock, which looked good enough to climb but on closer inspection we could see there was no good places to place protection; surprised though someone hadn't bolted it but noting there are hundreds of sport and mix climbing routes in the Grampians we figured there were much better spots. There's evidence all around of the bush fires which riped through the area in 2006 and 2014 although vegetation is now growing back and we saw lots of birds and butterflies. We took the long way round to the top as we thought we could walk on the ridge but the path stayed below it (didn't fancy going "off piste" as the snakes aren't friendly!). After going past some more strange rock formations we arrived at the top, which afforded us some great views of the valley below and Halls Gap. As it was really busy we didn't stick around long and after a quick sandwich, decided to head further along the ridge. This was a beautiful part of the walk and whilst really well marked we had the pleasure of it all to ourselves. We stopped at the Lakeview lookout and then after descending slightly climbed up to the highest point, Sundial Peak at 802m. It was really clear now and we could see right across the mountains to the plain in the east and in the foreground was the large man made Lake Bellfield with its dam at the end. Fittingly the summit did have a sundial on the top from the students at Hamilton Technical college, which nestles as the foot of the Grampians some 75kms away. We then started the long descent down to the lake to a fine pleasant afternoon with intermittent sunshine and the odd kangaroo hiding in the trees. It was then a 4km walk along the road back to the car, knowing that with a 6 hour walk behind us, we had fully deserved a curry in the evening but not before tea and scones (although the cafe didn't have scones but did have a rather good muffin). The curry was very enjoyable and worth the effort of a day out in the hills although their medium was quite hot!

On route to Venus Baths 

Splitter Falls 

Entering the Grand Canyon 

Reaching the top of the Grand Canyon 

Unfortunately this tree didn't survive the recent fires

Hanging around ... 

The Pinnacle (with lots of people) 

Sundial Peak 

Grampians National Park Day 117 13/01/2015

We woke up to the sound of torrential rain and wind. We'd planned to drive up to the Grampians National Park, doing a half day walk enroute but looking out of the window we guessed we might be in for more of a driving tour. After breakfast we packed up and loaded our things into the car, glad we'd parked the undercover. It was even too wet for Diane to get out of the car to take a photo of the hotel. After filling up again we set off north, deciding to go via the main road due to flooding and surface water. The rain was fairly persistent all the way to Dunkeld, a sleepy town on the south edge of the national park and where we'd planned to walk up Mount Sturgeon. The rain was still falling and the cloud very low (it was almost like being back at home!) so after a chat with the very helpful gentleman in the visitors centre, and then some coffee, we drove along the Victoria tourist drive. The route takes you through the mountain range and eventually brings you back to Dunkeld where we had lunch before setting off north again to Halls Gap where we're staying for the next two nights. It was a nice drive despite the weather and we saw emus and kangaroos along the way grazing on local farmland, no doubt frustrating the farmers. Halls Gap is in the Wonderland Range of mountains and is the main base to access the best of the Grampians (a bit like Aviemore is to the Cairngorms). It's a single street town with a few shops, restaurants and cafes. We went into the visitors centre to see what the path conditions were like, both from the current weather and also the recent bush fires (a large part of the northern area is still closed from bushfires in January 2014). Some areas have been affected by floods but hopefully we should be able to get out tomorrow - fingers crossed. As we were walking back to the car a bird pooed on Diane's head so we must be in for some good luck! We're staying at the Grampians Motel, a bit dated but comfortable enough and a little cheaper than some of the other accommodation we've stayed in so far in Victoria which helps the budget. The grounds here are full of kangaroos. In fact we've seen so many today that our initial excitement is starting to fade! In the evening we headed into town and went to a little bistro for dinner then headed back for an early night in anticipation of a good day out in the hills tomorrow.

The southern Grampians

The area is full of wildlife with emu's...

... and kangaroos  

We liked this sign spotted in Dunkeld

and more roos...

Day 116 12/01/2015

Luckily the noise did quieten down at 10pm as promised! We'd planned to head west today to visit Cape Duquesne and Bridgewater before returning to Warrnambool and then driving back to the Twelve Apostles in the evening to (hopefully) see the penguins. We set off after breakfast, filled up the car with fuel (65p per litre), bought lunch from a local deli and drove the c125km through predominantly agricultural land to Cape Duquesne where the road ends. From the car park you can walk along the cliff tops to see the sea pounding the cliffs with huge roaring waves creating rock pools and spectacular blowholes. Nearby is the petrified forest which despite it's name isn't a forest but is actually limestone stacks, blown hollow with the wind. We drove back to Bridgewater Bay, a 4km arc of stunning white sand, stopped for drinks and had our lunch looking out to sea (we did contemplate a quick dip in the sea but decided it was a little bit too chilly) before setting off walking along the clifftops towards Cape Bridgewater. The area was originally one of the regions big whaling stations and well populated, very different to the view you get looking back across the bay today. The cliffs here are apparently the highest in Victoria. Despite the height we were able to see a shoal of fish in the clear blue water. A little bit further we spotted a mob of kangaroos on the hilltop, lazing around in the afternoon heat. We continued along to the Cape from where you can see a colony of fur seals, sunning themselves on the rocks and playing in the water. The colony looked much smaller than the one we'd seen a few days ago and we certainly weren't anything like as close to them but this time we did get some pictures!  By now it was late afternoon and we decided to head back, stopping in Port Fairy for tea and scones before returning to our hotel. We set out again early evening to go to see the penguins return to their nesting ground near the Twelve Apostles. On route we stopped to see The Grotto with it's hollowed out cave like formation where the waves crash through. A little further down the coast we had another stop at London Bridge. It's an impressive arched rock platform just off the shore. It did have a double arch until January 1990 when the bridge linked to the main land collapsed leaving two tourists marooned on the newly formed island. They were apparently eventually rescued by helicopter. Probably best not to think about it too much! From here we headed back to the Twelve Apostles and made our way to the viewing platform which overlooks the beach. The sunset was beautiful and certainly helped to pass the time. Around 9.15pm the first group of c30 little penguins appeared at the waters edge. They were very small but wonderful to see them head off up the beach to the higher dry land, leaving a track through the sand as they went. Unfortunately Diane's free binoculars that she acquired from a trip to Wimbledon didn't really help. We watched another 3 groups appear and follow the same route before it became too dark to see them. On the way back we stopped at Port Campbell in search of a takeaway but failed. Despite a close encounter with a kangaroo we made it safely back arriving just before 11pm and importantly in time for a quick pint and packet of crisps in the bar before heading off to bed, tired and hungry but delighted to have seen so much wildlife in one day.

Cape Duquesne 

Petrified Forest 

Bridgewater Bay 

Roos on the hilltop 

Australian & New Zealand fur seals

Enjoying the water

London Bridge (with the gap to the mainland) 

The Grotto 

Little penguins returning to shore (the black dots just left of centre and the v shape in the waves)  

Sunset over the Twleve Apostles 

Day 115 11/01/2015

We planned to drive along the Great Ocean Road today and stay overnight in Warrnambool. The weather was quite misty as we drove down to the coast road, turning west at Apollo Bay and heading towards Cape Otway, passing where we'd gone kayaking yesterday (we actually received a text to tell us that the swell was too big for kayaking which was interesting given we'd been the day before!). Cape Otway is the second most southerly point of mainland Australia. The coastline is beautiful and very rugged. We drove down to Cape Otway Lightstation which is the oldest lighthouse on mainland Australia although no longer in use. We'd read that you can sometimes see Koala's in the trees along the way and we were delighted when we spotted them. They are such lovely creatures. The lighthouse was built in 1848 by 40 stonemasons without mortar or cement. Nearby is the Telegraph Station which has a fascinating display on the 250km undersea telegraph cable line that was laid back in 1859 from here to Tasmania. We continued west to reach the Port Campbell National Park stopping at Princetown for lunch, a small village on the Gillibrand River Estuary, where we experienced our first and hopefully last, Spyder drink (see photo below). We've probably had our quota of E's for the year! The road levels out from here and enters flat scrubby escarpment lands with c70m cliffs falling away to the sea. Waves and tides have crashed against the soft limestone for aeons caving out a fascinating serious of rock stacks, gorges, aches and blowholes, the most famous of which are known as the Twelve Apostles. We stopped at Gibsons Steps where you can walk down the 86 steps, originally hacked out by hand and now replaced by concrete, to Gibson Beach (there's no swimming anywhere along this coast due to strong currents and undertows) to see the first of the Apostles. A short distance along the road you can walk to the viewing platform to get a great view of seven of the Apostles. By now the weather had improved with the sky clearing and the temperature rising. The helicopter company offering scenic tours was doing a roaring trade but at $145 for 15 minutes we thought it was a bit excessive and gave it a miss. A little further along the coast is Loch Ard Gorge. The stretch of coast is known as Shipwreck's Coast and this area is the most famous with haunting tales of wrecked ships and heroic survival. By know it was nearly 5pm and we decided we'd better head to Warrnambool, planning to return tomorrow to see the remaining sights and the penguins which nest along the shore. We're staying at the Warrnambool Hotel, a historic 1894 hotel with a very popular and noisy bar under our room which we're hoping quietens down at 10pm as promised! It's renowned for wood fired pizzas which we can confirm our lovely especially when washed down with a good bottle of red.

Forrest Guest House

Perfecting the art of down climbing 

You can't get any cuter than this 

Cape Otway Lightstation 

Lime Spyders with added E's! 

Gibson Beach 

Twelve Apostles 

Looking east to Gibson Beach 

Loch Ard Gorge 

Day 114 10/01/2015

We had originally planned to walk along the Great Ocean Road from Apollo Bay to the Twelve Apostles but it was all getting a bit complicated (and costly) to organise with hike in only campsites and transfers so instead we decided to do day activities along the way. Today we'd booked to go sea kayaking at the Marengo Marine Sanctuary which is just west of Apollo Bay. After breakfast at the guest house we drove back down to the coast to meet Dan, our instructor for the tour. Supplied with wet suits, life jackets and helmets and signing a declaration (we definitely are back in a western country) we dragged our two seater kayak down to the waves. The weather had improved a bit from yesterday but it was still chilly and the sea looked a bit menacing. There are a number of reefs just off the shore which form the sanctuary. We paddled passed the first one which is home to a myriad of sea birds (and you could smell them too). It was hard going with the swell and paddling against the tide. The next reef is home to over 200 fur seals who were all very noisy and boisterous. Apparently most of them are males who dropped in on the reef en route to join other colonies. The fully grown seals weight from 250 to 350 kg. We paddled up to the reef and after waiting a few minutes a group of seals headed down to the sea and slide in, swimming past us and out towards another reef.  We paddled around for about 45 minutes, being taken away from the reef by the tide and having to paddle back in, watching the seals pop up and down in the sea. It was about 3 metres deep where we were and unbelievable clear with the bottom visible. A number of the seals swam passed us to get back on the reef. They seemed to be as curious of us as we were of them. It was great to see them in their natural habitat with we both felt that we really got very close to them. Paddling back to shore was much easier and it didn't take long to get close to the shore where the waves were breaking. We lined up the kayak and road the waves back onto the beach. It was great fun but despite Dan's offer to go out again we declined, both feeling the efforts of the paddle out against the tide. After changing we drove into Apollo Bay for tea and muffins. The weather was still a bit overcast so we decided to do a walk around Lake Elizabeth which is not too far from Forrest. After purchasing lunch we drove back in land to where the walk starts. Fed and watered we set off. The walk is described as 3.5km taking 3 to 4 hours which we found a little odd and a very long time for a short walk.  The path heads through the bush before reaching the shores of the lake which was formed back in the 1970's following a mud slide.  It's home to a large population of platypus although being nocturnal creatures we didn't see any but did see an array of birds, some of which we recognised. The view across the lake is surreal with dead trees jutting from it's waters. The walk takes you around the shoreline although the vegetation is very dense making it difficult to see the water.  Part way along we were glad that we'd picked up a stick as we came across yet another snake but luckily this time it soon slithered off, (after checking its markings when we got back we found it was only "mildly venomous" not totally venomous"!) At the head you cross over a boarded walkway and continue back on the opposite shore. We were back at the car in just under 90 minutes wondering what we should have done to make the walk last 3 to 4 hours! Back in Forrest we stopped at the local store for tea. Unfortunately they didn't have Earl Grey but did have Yorkshire Tea which was a real treat for Simon. In the evening we frequented the micro brewery again for another lovely meal and this time Simon had Mr Poppins, a guest ale and apparently very nice (enough for Simon to down 3 pints!)

Our equipment for the morning 

Marengo Bay with the reefs on the horizon

No evidence of wildlife from the shore! 

Lake Elizabeth 

Surreal scenery of dead trees 

Crossing the head of the lake 

Great Ocean Road Day 113 9/01/2015

We had breakfast at the local cafe before getting the shuttle bus back to the airport to collect our hire car that we'd booked for the next 7 days. The weather has certainly turned and it's much cooler with light rain/drizzle.  From the airport we drove west towards Geelong and then south to Torquay where we stopped to get our first view of the beautiful white beaches and waves. The town isn't particularly interesting but the surf has made it very popular. The Great Ocean Road officially begins on the stretch of road just west of Torquay on the way to Anglesea. It was started in 1919 and completed in 1932, involving more than 3,000 workers in it's construction, mostly returned WWI soldiers.  We took a detour just west of Torquay to see the famous Bells Beach.  It was a bit chilly but lovely views. From here we drove along to Anglesea passing some very colourful, yellow cliffs rolling into the sea. We were hungry (must be the sea air!) and we couldn't resist the temptation of chips by the sea. Diane had a slight accident with the sachet of tomato ketchup, most of which is now sprayed over the hire car's passenger door! The road continues on to Aireys Inlet and passed Split Point Lighthouse where we stopped for a walk to the viewing points.  The beach and sea here are all part of a protected marine sanctuary.  The 34m high lighthouse was built in 1891 and is still operational although now fully automated. West of Aireys Inlet is Lorne, with hilly tree lined streets and beautiful beaches. The town itself, as with other places along the coast, lacks a bit of charm (maybe because its not that old by European standards) but the scenery makes up for it. From here we continued to Apollo Bay, one of the larger towns along the Great Ocean Road, where we stopped for tea and a rather heavy scone before heading inland to Forrest where we were staying for a couple of nights (we had tried to find somewhere on the coast but everywhere was full given it's summer holidays here). Forrest is about 45 minutes drive from Apollo Bay, a former logging town now transforming itself into a tourist destination. We arrived late afternoon after driving 245km from Melbourne and checked into the Forrest Guesthouse, which is a lovely place, formerly the club house of the local bowls club.  The town has it's own micro brewery which we frequented in the evening and had a lovely meal washed down with beer brewed onsite. Diane had to drag Simon out after a couple as he would have stayed there all night sampling the very tasty beer.

Melbourne skyline in the rain - what a difference 24 hours makes!

Our hire car for the week 

 

A chilly Torquay 

Bells Beach looking east 

Bells Beach looking west 

The start of the Great Ocean Road 

Split Point 

Split Point Lighthouse

Enjoying a pint or two of Red Ale

Day 112 8/01/2015

We'd decided to visit the Melbourne Cricket Ground in the morning and got the free City Circle Tram to Flinders Street for breakfast before walking along to the stadium which is just on the east of the city.  Despite being in Melbourne on a number of occasions over the next few weeks none coincide with a match so a tour was the next best thing for Simon.  The stadium is very impressive and has a capacity of 100,000 people, hosting cricket in the summer and Aussie Rules Football in the winter.  The tour takes you round the stands, members, media and coaches areas, changing rooms and out onto the ground.  The first test match was played on the site in 1877 between Australia and England, which Australia won by 42 runs. Apparently this was a great shock to us English as it was only 20 years before that Australia fielded 18 players against England's 11 in an attempt to make the match more equal!  The stadium was also used for the 1956 Melbourne Olympics and 2006 Commonwealth Games and as army barracks for US and Australian troops during WWII. Simon was really in his element taking in the fantastic stadium which really was quite impressive. He really enjoyed the view of the whole ground from the press box. After the tour we visited the National Sports Museum which is housed in the basement.  It's got a number of exhibitions celebrating historic sporting moments including a hologram of Shane Warne, who after Sir Don Bradman is viewed as the best ever Australian cricket player. From here we wandered back into the city and went for lunch in one of the laneways.  Central Melbourne is a warren of 19th century arcades and cobbled laneways featuring street art (more graffiti), restaurants, bars and shops.  By now we were both starting to flag even though the temperature had dropped quite a bit and the sun was behind cloud.  We headed back to the hotel to chill out.  We had planned to go to the Queen Victoria summer night market in the evening but unfortunately it's only open on Wednesdays.  Instead we went to eat at Mamasita's, a Mexican restaurant.  There wasn't one fajita or enchilada on the menu but we still had a lovely meal!

Outside the MCG with Dennis Lillie's statue

Inside the stadium 

In the press area 

Melbourne street art 

The laneways