Santiago Day 195 01/04/2015

We woke on our final morning to a resumption of the sunshine and after packing and checking out, spent our final couple of hours walking around the town and seafront. By the time we had done this and had a coffee it was time for the short 5 minute drive to the airport. Kathy said her goodbyes and we both received a traditional necklace made from seashells from her. Our plane landed, disembarking the arriving passengers and a hour later we were on board (extra legroom as we had the emergency exit seats) and ready for take off. As we climbed through the air we saw the island get smaller and smaller and reflected on our very enjoyable 4 days there. Despite the dispute we managed to see all the sights we wanted to via a combination of organised tour, on bikes and on foot. It really is a lovely island but very isolated as its over 4000kms from Tahiti and 3700kms from mainland Chile. Whilst it's part of the latter we didn't think it felt connected to it other than by the same language and currency. The place has a strong historical and cultural presence, the latter in the form of the maois and these being very unique. After just under 6 hours we landed at Santiago, quickly got our bags, found our transportation into the centre of Santiago and were back at the Hostel Rio Amazonas (where we stayed before) just before midnight, feeling tired but happy we had been to such a lovely, remote place.

Easter Island airport and the plane for our flight back to Santiago

Easter Island Southwest Circuit Day 194 31/03/2015

Our plan for the day was to walk from the town to the volcano, Rano Kau, on the southwest tip of the island. We headed into Hanga Roa first to get some water but realised, after the 4th mini market, that the stocks had been depleted. However the coffee shop where we grabbed some breakfast (the electricity had been switched off for maintenance work at the cabanas) sold us a couple of bottles so all set, we walked the 2kms to the park office, which was at the entrance of the climb up the volcano. We went to pay our park fees only to be told they were not selling them as the dispute was still ongoing and we couldn't get access to any of the national park, part of which lies our objective. Unperturbed we thought we would chance it and started the climb up the path, through initially woods and then meadows, trying not to be concerned when we saw a plane abort its landing at the airport. (It subsequently did a circuit of the island and landed without any issues.) We arrived 30 mins later, unchallenged, at the mirador (viewpoint) to be greeted by an amazing site which neither of us quite expected. In front of us was a huge crater, which was filled with a lake and covering the surface was lots of vegetation, making it very green. The edge of the crater was equally impressive and we saw that the far side was extremely steep and had sheer 400m drops straight into the Pacific Ocean below. From the crater rim we walked out to the furthermost tip to the ceremonial village of Orongo. This was used by the people who populated the island originally as a place to welcome the start of spring and everyone came to live there for 3 weeks. Whilst the tourist office was closed we still were able to walk around the village, seeing the restored stone shelters and marvelling at the fantastic view out to sea, including the 3 islands of the coast. We set off back down the hill just as the rain started to intermittently fall and when we got back to Hanga Roa noted it had been quite a heavy tropical downpour there. As we were damp and the rain threatened a return, we went back to our cabanas and enjoyed the eat remaining empanadas from yesterday, sitting out on the terrace reading and watching the heavy rain return. As it was our last night we went back to the nearby restaurant we went to on our first night to enjoy a local fish dish (Simon) and pasta (Diane) looking out over the sunset across the ocean.

Rano Kau 

The crater lake 

Orongo ceremonial village on the right 

The houses in the village 

The village on the crater edge 

An example of the early houses 

Easter Island Northern Circuit Day 193 30/03/2015

We decided to hire bikes today and headed off to explore part of the northern circuit. We had breakfast at the cabanas and then walked along the main street to buy lunch (more empanadas but no fish) and sorted out getting our bikes. Once we were sorted we set off peddling north towards Ahu Akivi. We'd been cycling for about 30 minutes before we came to our first barricade and despite our best efforts couldn't get past. We headed back downhill towards the town and took every right turn, down dust tracks and sealed roads, in an attempt to continue our planned journey (not that there were many). At one point we ended up on private land and a very nice gentleman gave us very detailed directions although it got lost in translation after about the third right turn! We finally came out at the coast at Ahu Akapu where there's a solitary moai (just up the coast from where we had walked on our first day). After enjoying lunch we continued north along a dirt track to another barricade. After a chat with the local protester we were let through (no idea why we were allowed to here and not at the earlier road block). We missed the caves at Ana Kakenga and continued on what had become a very dusty and rough track to Ahu Tepeu where there were several fallen moai and a large village. From here the track headed inland to Ana Te Pahu, a former cave dwelling overgrown with banana trees and other vegetation but providing some respite from the heat of the sun. We continued cycling and the track eventually turned into a sealed road as we reached Ahu Akivi where 7 restored moai face towards the sea (all other moai face inland). Legend has it that they were explorers hence why they are looking out to sea. After a short break we continued on to Puna Pau, avoiding the numerous horses that roam in the road. Puna Pau is a volcanic quarry where the reddish pukao (topknots) were made. From here it was downhill, passed another barricade, and back to Hanga Roa, cycling round the headland on route. We dropped off the bikes and enjoyed a coke and ice cream at a bar in the harbour. Cycling is definitely a great way to explore the island although we very dirty, sweaty and Diane's nose had got sun burnt. In the evening we walked up to the main street, watching the sunset over the Pacific on the way. It was very quiet with a number of bars and restaurants closed for the night. We found one place open and enjoyed a bottle of good, cheap Chilean wine and two slightly strange pizzas before heading back to the cabanas.

Ahu Akapu

A fallen moai head at Ahu Tepeu 

Ahu Akivi 

The topknots at Puna Pau 

The view of Hanga Roa from Puna Pau volcano 

Cycling around the headland at Hanga Roa 

Watchingthe sunset over the Pacific Ocean 

Easter Island Northeast Circuit Day 192 29/03/2015

We had breakfast at our cabanas and then were picked up by the tour bus at 9.45am, heading towards Aka Hanga on the east coast. The locals had erected a barricade at the National Park boundary however after some chat between the driver and the protesters we were let through, apparently because both our driver and guide were Polynesian. As the park office was closed we hadn't been able to pay the park entrance fees, which we 30000 Chilean pesos each (about £31). Aka Hanga is a large settlement of houses, cooking pits, caves, ahu's and remains of moai. It was interesting to hear how the local people built their homes, lived and a little about their beliefs and customs. From here we drove a short distance to Rano Raraku, the quarry where the moai were cut. There are moai scattered around the landscape, in all stages of progress on the slopes of the volcano, including the tallest known which has not been fully cut from the rock. We walked to the crater to see the small, glistening lake and then headed back downhill for a picnic lunch (which at $12,000 pesos was very expensive and the only disappointment of the day). From the slopes of the volcano you could see our next stop at Ahu Tongariki, the site of 15 imposing, awe inspiring, restored moai set on the largest ahu. It was an amazing site with the ocean behind and volcano in front. We had a quick stop at Papa Vaka to see the 'magic' volcanic rock and it's effect on a compass (just like The Cullien Mountains on Isle of Skye Simon remarked!) before continuing to Anakena and Ahu Nau Nau with 7 restored moai and the backdrop of the white beach and shimmering sea. There's also a lone moai here, Ahu Ature Huki. Most of the group headed straight for the sea whilst we had a wander along to see the moai and pier before having a paddle in the warm waters. We set off back for Hanga Roa, passed another barricade and arrived back in town just before 6pm. It had been an excellent day, very interesting and informative and the tour was definitely really good value for money. In the evening we headed out to find a restaurant recommended in Lonely Planet, couldn't see it, so went to another on the main street. Simon had a local fish dish and Diane ordered 'mixed cheese empanadas, a strange description for what turned out to be fish also! At least the copa de vino tinto was good!

Aka Hanga  

Rano Raraku 

Incomplete moai waiting to be transported to their anu 

The tallest moai to be found

Rano Raraku crater and lake 

Ahu Tongariki from Rano Raraku 

The impossing moai at Ahu Tongariki 

The fifth from the right is the largest complete moai to be found 

Ahu Tongariki and the volcano of Rano Raraku 

The 'magic' stones 

Anakena beach 

Easter Island Day 191 28/03/2015

Despite being very tired we both had a restless night and finally got up late morning. We walked along the seafront and found a bar for brunch. As we sat enjoying our meal we saw a turtle pop it's head up in the sea. We were too late with the camera and sat for a while looking in vain for it to reappear. From here we headed to the tourist information office to find it closed so headed to the main street to do a bit of shopping. Hanga Roa is the island's sole town with 6700 inhabitants and most shops, restaurants, bars and accommodation are based around the main street. The cabanas have kitchen facilities and we had planned to have a few meals there however didn't see anything we fancied in the supermarket so just got provisions for breakfast. Easter Island (Rapa Nui) is a small (117sq km), very remote, isolated place and a treasure trove of archaeology which draws the tourists here. There's been an ongoing dispute between the local islanders and the Chilean government over the income from the National Park, which apparently all goes to the mainland, and the influx of mainland Chileans coming to the island to work. The locals were barricading the park access and the National Park office was closed although it was all a bit vague as to where you could/couldn't go. We thought the best option was to book a tour, hopefully this would help with the access and also provide an insight into the history and cultural significance of the numerous archaeological sites. We headed to company recommended by Lonely Planet to find it closed. We wandered back to the seafront and had sight of our first moai, Ahu Tautira, the massive carved figures which stand between 2 and 10m high, overlooking the fishing port. We continued north along the coastal path to Ahu Tahai, the site of 3 ahu's. Ahu's are village burial sites and ceremonial centres with the platform containing one or more moai. The restoration of one of the moai here, Ahu Ko Te Ritu, includes the head knot made of red rock and eyes. The weather was very hot and we were both tired and decided to stroll the short distance back to the cabanas. Kathy very kindly offered to book the tour for us for tomorrow (her sister-in-law works for the tour agency) and after chilling out on the terrace we went to a restaurant very close by, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, for dinner.  

The local church

Ahu Tautira 

The fishing port (with moai just left of centre) 

The coastline north of Hanga Roa 

Ahu Tahai & Ahu Vai Uri 

Ahu Ko Te Ritu 

The local beer 

Easter Island Day 190 27/03/2015

We walked across the road to the airport terminal to check in for our flight to Easter Island. After a bit of confusion as to where to go (check in was in international departures even though Easter Island is part of Chile) we dropped off our bags. Unfortunately the lounge is in international departures and we were boarding in domestics so, after security, we went to a cafe for the most disgusting cup of coffee we've had so far on our trip and a muffin. Just before boarding was due to commence it was announced that our flight was delayed to 12. We wandered around a bit (there's not too much to see) and then settled down for the wait. Just before 12 we boarded, found our seats at the back of the plane although this time on the right hand side and they had more leg room and a leg rest as, apparently, they are used by crew if the plane isn't full. We watched the engineers look under the wing, the captain joined in and looked, more engineers came and looked and then after about an hour we were asked to disembark the plane. We were given a meal voucher that we redeemed at Starbucks for juice and a sandwich and then wiled away the hours reading, people watching, wandering around, reading..... until we boarded just after 6pm and finally took off. We landed on Easter Island, 3760km west from Santiago and over one third of the distance back towards Auckland, just after 10pm local time after a 9 hour delay and nearly 6 hour flight (appreciate we won't get a lot of sympathy from people at home but perhaps from our fellow travellers!). One of the many good things about being away for a long time is that losing a day due to delays becomes insignificant in the grand scale of things. We collected our bags and were met by the owner of the cabanas where we'd booked to stay, with a customary Pacific Island flower garland. The drive to the Cabanas Ngahu was only a few minutes away and we were greeted by the joint owner, Kathy and a half bottle of red on arrival. What more can you want? We sat out on the terrace enjoying the sound of the sea, exhausted but very glad to have finally arrived.

Arriving at Easter Island 

Valparaiso Day 189 26/03/2015

The tour yesterday had certainly helped us to get a better perspective of Valparaiso, beyond the facade of run down, ramshackeled buildings, to appreciate some of its charm and appeal. We had a much better night's sleep, hopefully we've got over the jet lag just in time for to head back west to Easter Island! After breakfast we packed our bags, left them at the hostel and headed off to visit La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda's home and now a historic building. We walked back along Avenue Almirante Montt, where we'd come on the bus yesterday, to reach the house and took advantage of an audio tour whilst we perused Chile's most famous poet's collections of furniture and artworks. The four story house gives great views over the hillsides and harbour. From here we headed down through the open air museum (more graffiti!) created between 1969 and 1973 by local students. We weren't really too sure if we were on the right street but we did see lots of murals! From here we headed back towards Cerro Alegre and found a cafe for lunch. The skies had cleared with the temperature rising and we decided to chill out for an hour at the hostel before setting off to get the bus back to Santiago. We left the hostel and got the local micro to the bus terminal (the journey was as crazy as the one yesterday with the same loco driver!). We'd booked tickets for the 16.01 bus and waited patiently watching the clock pass 4pm. A bus arrived, displaying 16.15, which we attempted to board however the driver wasn't happy to take us. After a bit of 'chat' between the driver and ticket office we finally boarded and set off back to Santiago. Our flight to Easter Island is scheduled to leave at 9.30am tomorrow and we'd decided to stay close to the airport to avoid an early start. We got the airport bus and checked in at the Holiday Inn just after 7pm, used as many of the facilities as we could and had dinner in the restaurant before heading off to bed.

The view from the terrace of Pablo Neruda's house

La Sebastiana