Reflections of Japan

• Beautiful mountainous country
• Very densely populated on the south of the island (it was basically suburbia from Tokyo to Hiroshima) - 127.5m people need to live somewhere and it has to be on the plains
• Despite this there's a real sense of tranquility and order 
• It's extremely easy to get around - the train service is a great asset
• The people are very friendly and helpful.  People would come up to us and ask where we were from. Usually they knew England but not Scotland although a couple did know about it and asked about the referendum! 
• There are lots of customs and traditions that they are meticulous in following which may appear a bid alien and extreme to visitors. Maybe that's why the people get a unfair reputation for being cold and aloof but mainly it's more being shy and reserved
• The food is exquisite although it helps if you're a bit adventurous!  That said the brown tea and sweets are definitely an acquired taste
• The toilets are a technological work of art and do everything from automatically raise the lid to heat the seat, play music, wash and dry your private parts in addition to the basic functions we're more use to at home
• Oh and the beers very drinkable (but they usually are every where in the world for Simon!)
• Despite the streets and everywhere being litter free there was a lack of any bins meaning you usually had to carry your litter around with you
• You pay when you off the bus and there is a simple grid to understand how much depending on where you got off (and you get on where we'd normally get off and vice versa)
• Everything is practical and logical which means that even if you don't understand the signs you get an understanding of what's happening...
• They drive as we do on left so less likely to be knocked over when crossing a road!
• That is apart from street numbers which are not consecutive.  That's because the numbers are assigned when house, buildings etc are built so that the grid system of most cities will get you to the right street but then it's one hell of a job finding the place you want (hence why we didn't find the restaurants we wanted in both Kyoto and Hiroshima)

We both really liked Japan and would recommend it as a must see place. It is a long way from home but 3 weeks would be worth the flight time. We would definitely like to comeback; maybe for 3 months finances permitting (although we've got lots more adventures and places to visit over the next 11 months).

Tokyo Day 25 13/10/2014

Typhoon Vongfong has hit Japan and it's pouring down in Hiroshima (that's 2 typhoons in just over a week!).  We ventured out for breakfast and then quickly retreated back to the hotel.  It's impossible not to get soaked even with Simon's new umbrella.  The Japanese really have got the umbrella thing down to an art.  All shops, bars, restaurants either provide brolly stands or clear plastic bags to put your brolly in and avoid it dripping everywhere.  We spotted a brolly drying device in one store!  At some places you can even lock your brolly in it's own personal stand confident that no one will mistakenly take it away with them.  There's a good over ground tram system in Hiroshima but we decided to treat ourselves with a taxi to the station to avoid the rain and then headed off on the Shinkansen bound for Tokyo.  The rail system is excellent.  The highlight for Diane is the fact that you always face in the direction of travel.  The seats all swivel and some little elf must come out at the end of the line and turn them all around.  Not bad considering some trains have 16 carriages, 16 rows of seats in each carriage and 2 sets of seats in each row!  If anybody is planning to come to Japan we'd definitely recommend buying a Japan Rail Pass and using the train to get around.  From what we've read we get the impression it's going to be a very different experience in China!  Back in Tokyo it's still pouring down and blowing a gale.  Hopefully it will have calmed down a bit before our flight tomorrow.  We're heading to Shanghai so no Facebook or blog updates for a while.  Hopefully we'll be back online early November when we plan to be in Hong Kong.

Hiroshima Day 24 12/10/2014

We headed out from our hotel to visit the Atomic Bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Park.  Both sites are on our must visit list but as we headed off we both felt a little bit apprehensive about what we'd see and how disturbing it would be.  In common no doubt with most people the only reason we know of Hiroshima is because of the events of 6th August 1945 when Hiroshima became the target of the world's first atomic bomb attack.  The Atomic Bomb Dome was one of very few buildings left standing anywhere near the epicentre despite the bomb exploding almost directly above.  Everyone inside what was then the Industrial Promotion Hall was killed.  The site is now a Unesco World Heritage Site and has become a grim symbol of the city's tragic past.  The Peace Memorial Park is a large, leafy area on the opposite side of the river dotted with memorials, The Flame of Peace and a museum.  The museum exhibits include amongst other things a display of personal items salvaged from the aftermath of the explosion - ragged clothes, glasses, children's possessions - and some very gruesome and harrowing photography of victims.  It told the story of a little girl called Sadako who survived the explosion but 10 years later developed leukaemia.  She folded over 1,000 paper cranes, the symbol of longevity and happiness in Japan.  She was convinced she'd recover but sadly didn't.  The park includes a Children's Peace Monument inspired by her story.  Thousands of children had been brought into Hiroshima before the bomb to help build fire breaks.  It seems somehow ironic that this decision to help prevent destruction in the city ultimately cost them their lives.  All very moving but probably shouldn't be considered as an isolated episode in what was a horrendous and long war which ultimate this act possibly helped to draw to a close and end the ongoing loss of human lives all around the world.  

We then headed off south on the local train to get the ferry to Miyajima, an island off the bay of Hiroshima (we could use our train pass on both which was an added benefit).  Diane's navigation skills failed slightly but luckily Simon stepped in to ensure we went the correct way on the train!  The island is one of Japan's most visited tourist spots with the star attraction being the vermilion toril (shrine gate) of Itsukushima-jinja which looks like it's floating on the waves at high tide.  It was busy (and must be extremely busy in the high season) but it still managed to retain a sense of tranquillity and peace as we've experienced in other tourist attractions in Japan.  After ice creams and a stroll around the waterfront we headed back to Hiroshima and enjoyed  a chilled beer at a small cafe opposite our hotel.  At night we went off in search of the same restaurant we'd failed to find the night before - and failed to find it again!  The place we ate in was a lively bistro style restaurant, Japanese only menu (except the headings) and Japanese only speaking staff.  With the help of the ivoice app we ordered two bowls of rice, two slices of mushroom, two slices of aubergine and two small chicken skewers all washed down with Carlsberg and a sake (we thought we should participate before we leave Japan).  Not the best of meals and we did head off in search of the "golden arches" (didn't find one) but a great experience.  As we left we spotted the restaurant we'd been searching for directly opposite and full of westerners.  No doubt courtesy of Lonely Plant.  Interestingly the restaurant we went to is the only place we've been to that has cutlery and a large selection of wine.  Perhaps it's Hiroshima's equivalent of a Spanish tapas bar?

Day 23 11/10/2014

Despite the young English guests chatting into the early hours we both had a good nights sleep and headed off in the morning to visit Hemiji-jo.  The castle is one of only a handful of original castles in Japan and although it's currently undergoing extensive renovations and you're not able to enter the main keep it's great to see and learn about it's history.  Hemiji itself is a small city and it is not a particularly attractive place.  The castle looks very out of place against the backdrop of high rise buildings and shopping arcades.  The lady who ran the hostel suggested we headed to Sho-sha-zan Engyo-ji temple which is a short bus ride from the city.  It's then a quick ride in a cable car and a walk up through a wonderful tranquil forest to get to the main temples which are occupied by practising monks.  It was used as a location for some of the filming of Last of the Samurai which seemed at odds with the peace and serenity of the place and preserving everything that it stands for.  No doubt the reality was that the American dollars very much helped to achieve this!  Then it was back to the station and a short trip on the Shinkansen to Hiroshima.  We were back in a western style hotel overlooking the river Kyobashi.  We headed off to find a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet guide and failed miserably!  Instead we ended up in a bustling building which has 25 food stalls spread over 3 floors.  No doubt reassured by the number of westerners present we sat ourselves down at one of the stalls and were treated to a fantastic experience watching three ladies cook our meal in front of us on a big hot plate.  We both had okonomiyaki, described as savoury pancakes, washed down with local beer (Japanese beer is very nice!).  It went something like this - pancake base cooked and then topped with roughly half a shredded cabbage (good intake of roughage!), nuts (?), lemon juice, soya sauce and some other indecipherable ingredient, bacon, fried egg spread thinly over the hot plate and then added to the  pile, noodles cooked separately and then added to the pile and the whole pile turned over, topped with a fried egg for Diane or prawns and scallops added for Simon, a huge pile of green onions added and slid over to your seat around the table.  It may not sound the most appetising of foods but it tasted amazing and was extremely filling (and good for the digestive system the following day!).   

Himeji Day 22 10/10/2014

Yesterday we woke up after a great nights sleep on the floor on our futons!  We headed off on the local bus to Southern Higashiyama, an area of Kyoto famous for its hills, temples and shrines.  It's a real attraction and was very busy but extremely tranquil at the same time.  A lot of girls and young ladies were in kimonos which was lovely to see and we even spotted two Geisha's riding in a rickshaw.  We had a very pleasant time visiting the temples and strolling through lovely narrow streets.  On one of these we found an exquisite tea house and it was a real treat to have a cup of 'proper' tea (including earl grey for Simon) in china cups and a ham and camembert muffin.  Shoes off and lots of bowing!  Has to be said Japanese brown tea is definitely an acquired test.  If you like catarrh medicine you'll love it!  Kyoto is a city surrounded by mountains, very beautiful and not as chaotic as Tokyo with a good balance of old and new.  It was the capital of Japan until 1868 and has 17 Unesco World Heritage sites.  There was so much to do and see here but we simply didn't have time, including a day trip to Nara which was the original capital.  Anyway we headed back to our ryokan, showered (together - all very intimate in Japan although I'm not sure this includes shower fights which Simon insisted on instigating!) changed and headed back out for dinner in the same vicinity that we'd been to the night before.  Another great meal the headed back for another night on the floor!

Today we headed to the Imperial Palace where we'd booked on an official tour (you can't wandered around on your own).  Whilst it was all very organised it was really interesting and as with other sites very tranquil.  The gardens were wonderful to see and Diane has got grand ideas for converting our tiny garden back in Edinburgh when we get home!  The weather has been lovely and warm and sunny.  We went back to the ryokan to pick up our luggage.  The couple who run this are really really helpful and insisted on giving us a lift to the train station free of charged (and they'd provided a free laundry service).  The Japanese people we've met so far have been so friendly and helpful.  So unlike the stereotypes you sometimes hear.  Diane was given a gift of a traditional bag carried when wearing a kimono.  A lovely gesture.

We got the Shinkansen to Himeji (124 km in less than an hour) and found our hostel for the night.  Basic but clean and we do need to remember that we are on a budget!  It's actually in the middle of a shopping arcade as is the restaurant we've just been to for another great meal.  Off to bed soon and looking forward to touring Himeji castle tomorrow before heading further west to Hiroshima.  Still feeling like we're on holiday as we reach the end of week three. Wondering if/when the reality of what we've done will kick in soon and what it will feel like!

Kyoto Day 20 8/10/2914

We left our lovely hotel at 9am to get the local bus to Shinfuji where we planned to take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto.  The bus took us round the other lakes that make up the Fuji Five Lakes and took just over 2 hrs to reach ShinFuji station which is just south of Mt Fuji near the coast.  A slow but very enjoyable journey, good to see the rural sights and be entertained by the bus driver.  The Shinkansen was just fast!  We bought Japan Rail passes which are available to non residents before leaving and make train travel easy and relatively cheap.  After a quick change of line we arrived in Kyoto within 2 hrs - not bad considering it's a distance of 210miles and we stopped at a number of stations along the way.  We got the metro north to nearby the ryokan we'd booked into for the night and after a bit of a challenge finding it checked in.  A ryokan is a tradional Japanese inn with tatami-mat rooms and futons instead of beds.  You leave your shoes in the foyer and potter around in slippers and are provided with a yukata (lightweight Japanese robe) to wear for trips to the toilet or when you're off for a shower/bath.  The owners were unbelievably helpful with lots of suggestions on how to get around the city and where to go for dinner.  We headed off to downtown Kyoto on the bus which is very easy to use.  We realised that on earlier bus trips we'd been getting on using the exit door and off using the entrance door!  Infact you pay when you get off and the price is based on the number shown on a display panel near the driver.  We walked down a very picturesque and busy side street full of restaurants and after some debate on which one to go to went to a lively izakaya, a Japanese equivalent of a pub eatery.  Great food and atmosphere and reasonably priced for Japan at just over £40 for 4 dishes and 3 beers (guess who had 2!).  Back to the ryokan for hopefully a good nights sleep on our futons!

Kawaguchiko Day 19 7/10/2014

The alarm went off at 6am and by 6.30am we were heading up to the middle station on Mt Fuji.  The station is the furthest you can get by car and is at 2360m.  There was a circle of cloud around Fuji but the summit looked clear and we set off at 7am on our long & steep ascent.  The initial walk was through forest but it became an increasingly more barren lava landscape.  The route up has 3 further stations before you reach the summit and is littered with huts selling provisions and providing accommodation in the climbing season.  All where boarded up and all signs completely covered.  Apparently c318,000 people climbed the mountain in 2012 within the 2 month climbing season.  At c3000m we broke through the cloud to an amazing inversion and the summit was in sight although still c800m to go!  Around this time we meet a young English guy who'd set off from the base station at 800m at 4am that morning.  He was very eager to know how far it was to the top however we didn't want to dampen his enthusiasm and were deliberately vague!  There were a couple of other parties on the route but clearly nothing like the crowds experienced during the main season.  We reached the summit at 3776m just after 11am - not bad considering we'd climbed up 1416m and altitude.  You can see right into the bottom of the crater from the rim of the volcano and if time had permitted we could have walked round the full rim.  Instead we ate lunch, had a brief chat with a Japanese guy (well he talked to us a lot and we didn't understand a word of what he was saying but he seemed very happy!), took the obligatory summit photo and set off back down in expectation of making the last bus back to Kawaguchiko.  We descended through thickening mist in time to have a coffee at the middle station and boarded the last bus, tired but elated to have climbed one of the world's iconic mountains.  Back at the hotel we had a quick shower and headed out to a nearby restaurant.  Simon had fish pond smelt which despite sounding rather unappetising was a tasty fried white bait dish.  Back at the hotel again we celebrated with a couple of local beers and updated our blog.  We still can't load photos (if anybody knows how to load onto blogger.com on an iPad please email us to tell us how to!).  Simon has posted a few on Facebook if you want to have a look.

Day 18 6/10/2014

The typhoon hit land overnight and dispersed but not before battering Tokyo.  We headed off to the station to find the line to Kofu closed.  The language barrier was a bit of a challenge but we assumed the closure was probably due to power problems or landslides and decided to wait around to see if it reopened.  Luckily it did we were left Tokyo only 30 mins delayed which wasn't bad considering the weather.  In fact by the time we left the rain had stopped and the sun was out shining.  We changed train at Otsuki and got the local line to Kawaguchiko in the Fuji Five Lakes area and overlooking Mt Fuji.  The journey was very surreal travelling on a Thomas the tank engine train (although no Fat Controller in sight - in fact we haven't seen many overweight people in China or Japan).  The hotel shuttle bus was waiting at the station and we were there in less than 10 mins.  The hotel and our room on the top floor, has a fantastic view, overlooking Lake Kawaguchiko and with spectacular views of Mt Fuji which was out in all its glory.  Walking up it was to good an opportunity to miss and we headed off to find out how we could get to the middle station and buy provisions. The climbing season closes in Japan on 31 August and Fuji closed on the 15th September.  The local bus still runs to the middle station but doesn't leave until 9.30am and the last return is 3.30pm and is primarily shipping tourists in and off.  So the only option was taxi which we arranged via the very helpful lady at the hotel and also submitted our climbing form to the local park authority which despite the mountain being officially closed they were happy to take.  We ate in the hotel that evening and had a wonderful beef sukiyaki and pork shabu-shabu.  Both are traditional Japanese meals which you basically cook yourself from the prepared ingredients.  Luckily for us the very helpful lady from reception helped to get us started.  All in all a fantastic evening and wonderful way to spend our anniversary.  Off to bed early dreaming of mountains!

Day 17 5/10/2014

Typhoon Phanfone hit Tokyo and it rained heavily and incessantly all day damping our plans to visit the gardens at the Imperial Palace amongst other things.  We ventured out to Shinjuku train station to work out how to get to Kawaguchiko in the foothills of Mt Fuji the next day.  We were very conspicuous in our rain coats and water proof trousers as every one else just had umbrellas.  There were brolly racks everywhere and plastic covers so nobody dripped water on the subway or train (apart from us!).  Not only was it very orderly it also shows it must rain here as much as it does at home!  The afternoon saw us head off to the Toyko National Museum for a bit of culture and understanding of Japan's long and interesting history especially the Samurai period between the 11th and 19th centuries.  It's amazing to read about events that occurred here in Japan and cross reference this with our own known western history.  After drying out at the hotel (it was still raining cats & dogs) we succumbed to the need for bread and cheese and treated ourselves to pizza and wine at a nearby Italian restaurant.  We went to sleep with the typhoon raging outside.

Tokyo Day 16 4/10/2014

We're staying at the Centurion Hotel in Ueno, a district in North Tokyo.  Our room is box size, swinging cats (or not!) come to mind and the bathroom is shoe box size and not for the claustrophobic but it is very comfy.  We're on the 8th floor with a small balcony enabling us to have a good view over the city including the Sky Tree tower.  After breakfast we headed to the peaceful and very tranquil gardens at Meiji-Jingu which includes Tokyo's grandest Shino shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken.  We were lucky enough to see the start of a marriage ceremony with the wedding party in traditional dress.  The bride and groom later headed off in what looked like a London black cab specially fitted with lifting roof to enable the brides hair to fit in!  We then went to what apparently is the busiest road crossing in the world at Shibuya and watched the numerous crossings from a very busy Starbucks that overlooked the junction (and treated ourselves to western style coffee).  Diane then gave an interview to a Japanese cable TV company about foreigners in Tokyo (it might be on the website www.zip.co.jp!).  After a quick lunch we went to Tokyo Tower (very similar to the Eiffel Tower) and had a 250m ride up to the highest vantage point to look over the city.  It was a shame it was cloudy and we weren't able to see Mt Fuji but we still got a great 360 view of the city.  We travelled around the city on the metro - one of the most extensive and complex underground networks in the world with competing companies running different lines (and some overground lines).  Having said that with a little bit of help from the station attendant we worked out that a day ticket was best value for money and saved paying for going the wrong way!  By the end of the day we'd got it worked out and were travelling around like locals.  That night we went to a tradition Yakitori restaurant and had a fantastic meal.  All felt very authentic including sitting on the floor (was a bit of a struggle to get up afterwards especially for Simon.  He really should practice yoga!).  Back to the hotel with a full day planned for tomorrow.

Reflections of Beijing

• Very ordered, structured society and people
• Little evidence of any real poverty 
• Good variety between old Peking and new Beijing, steeped in history both ancient and modern
• Busy, so many people, very young especially on metro, and very friendly
• Easy to navigate metro, clean, tidy and very safe and felt very safe in city including walking around at night 
• Very few westerners - got stared at quite a lot through curious eyes! 
• In the main very cheap, metro single ticket 2¥ (20p), beer 5¥ (50p), meal for two 100¥ (£10) 
• High rise flats every where with lots of new ones going up - this city of 20 million people is still growing fast
• A real mix of ordered controlled society with increasingly affluent side getting richer through commerce.  Most cars new and a lot European (Audi and BMW's).  Definitely the new world power in the next few years with all these people in their late teens/early twenties
• Managed three key words in Mandarin - ' ni hao' (hello), 'xie xie ni' (thank you), 'xie san' (goodbye)!

Day 15 3/10/2014

Got up early to attempt to go to Tiananmen Square and despite being challenged by closed metro stations and masses of people finally got there.  Everything was tightly controlled with security checks  (more pushing and shoving) and lots of police.  We only just managed to make it back to the hostel for 12 and our taxi to the airport.  Tiananmen Square was huge and impressive with Mao's huge mausoleum in the central and looking across to the Forbidden City where his picture is prominently displayed.  All the people seemed very patriotic almost with a reverence to communism worshiping it like a religion.  The taxi to the airport took less than an hour and we were delighted to find out that we'd been upgraded to first class as the flight was over booked and Japan airlines are part of the One World Alliance which we're both members of the exec club.  Helps to make all the red eye flights to London over the last few years worth it!  Lots of bowing by the staff.  Tight security resulted in Simon's solar charger being confiscated!  Flight left on time travelling over South Korea and saw Seoul from the sky.  Landed at Tokyo Narita airport 2.45 hrs later.  Through customs quickly, easy to find airport express, one stop on subway and 250m walk to hotel.  All very easy!  After busy Beijing, Tokyo is equally busy but loud (noise and neon lights - bright and very Western).

Day 14 2/10/2014

Got picked up at 8.30am by taxi arranged by hostel and drove 3 hours north to Great Wall of China.  Went to Jinshanling section of the wall which is one of the quieter and most dramatic parts - still seemed very busy to us!  Taxi driver dropped us off at the north gate and we planned to walk to the east gate and meet him there (original plan to walk to Simatai not possible due to renovation work on the wall).   Given we hadn't paid for the ride and he lent us a phone we were clearly worth more to him than him to us.  We laughed when he took a photo of us to ensure he found us at the end!  Skipped cable car and walked up to wall and then walked about 4km and down to meet taxi.  The day was warm and very sunny and we had a fantastic views in all directions: the wall snaking away either side of us north to the mountains through which was the Gobi desert from whence the Mongol horde decended and south over hills to the rich plains of China.  Whilst a lot of the wall is still being restored and the going under foot challenging we could only marvel at a truly amazing piece of engineering which cost millions of lives to build and utterly useless at keeping the invaders out.  Had a 2.5hr taxi journey back to Beijing through lots of suburbs with high rise tower blocks, which must have been built in the last 20 years, and also huge mansions enclosed by gated walls no doubt for Beijing's rich and the parties top echelon.  So much for communism being egalitarian.  That night we went to a Lonely Planet recommended restaurant (The Courtyard) but didn't like the look of the taster menu so left but not before ordering a bottle of Evian water which cost 92¥ (£9.20)!  Went back to the hutong near Beihai Park where we'd been on the first night and had an uninspiring meal at another terrace restaurant.  Simon thought it was OK but not to Diane's liking and hoping that Japanese food will be more enjoyable.  Back for last night at the hostel, a lovely oasis in the middle of Beijing.  Quite quirky but clean and comfortable and very helpful owner and housekeeper.  A great find and highly recommended.  

Day 13 1/10/2014

Rained heavily all day.  Took a very convoluted trip to the Summer Palace.  First attempt following metro map involved Di being optimistic that we could travel on a yet to be built metro line!  Second attempt following Lonely Planet guide resulted in travelling to Beijing North train station and whilst waiting for bus 375 two helpful local students let us know that we were at the wrong stop (we were actually only three stops from where we started c2 hours before!).  Third attempt resulted in success only to find Summer Palace closed for the day.  Not our lucky day!  Decided that we'd go back to hostel to chill and avoid the rain via the coffee shop found on the first day for a rather tasty pizza.  Caught up on admin and emails then headed out to nearby restaurant recommended by Mark (housekeeper at Kelly's) - no English menu or English speaking staff.  Ordered 2 veggie dishes of dumplings and noodles.  Simple and tasty food and Simon really enjoyed the whole experience of being totally out of comfort zone.

Day 12 30/09/2104

After breakfast in the courtyard we jumped onto the metro to go to Tiananmen Square however tube stations and square closed due to national holiday starting today.  The holiday lasts for a week with the major attraction being the 65th anniversary of the People's Republic on the 1st October.  There were so many people everywhere waving red Chinese flags and wearing Mao style hats with obligatory red star.  We headed off to the Forbidden City and after some confusion due to diversions we managed to buy tickets and entered.  It was very impressive but so so busy with most people there being very young.  After a few hours sight seeing the numerous temples (and lunch of ice cream and crisps!) we crossed over the road to Jingshan Park where we walked to the top of the hill and from the Buddhist shrine could see right across the vast city of Beijing.  After the hustle and bustle of the Forbidden City the park was lovely and tranquil.  That evening went to dinner at a restaurant recommended by John which is apparently the #1 Peking duck restaurant 'Quan Ju De' situated on the west side of the Beihai Lake. The duck was tasty although a bit fatty by western standards and came with the obligatory cucumber, onion and sauce but the restaurant and everywhere around it very quiet - surprising noting the national holiday is tomorrow.  Plan to go to the Summer Palace tomorrow as the weather looks wet and then the Great Wall on Thursday.  Enjoyed a chilled beer in the courtyard before heading to bed reflecting on how orderly the whole metro experience was but how different this was to the pushing and shoving to get through the security checks to get into the Fobidden City!

Arriving in Beijing Day 11 29/9/2014

Green and warm.  Looking out of the window when we woke at 8am the scenery was much improved.  Lots of hills, green fields and different coloured landscape although there were a couple of cities with a huge number of tower blocks (at least they were more attractive than the Russian ones!) and some huge factories and power stations belching out smoke.  We were very excited as we entered the suburbs of Beijing and saw lots of bullet trains as we came into Beijing North station.  Arrived on time at 11.40am into Beijing's main station.  Said our goodbyes to Lee and headed out of the station to the taxi rank.  Initially quoted a fare of 460¥ to hostel and managed to negotiate down to 320¥.  However when arrived at hostel realised that despite reading about the inherent taxi scam at the station we had indeed been done and should have paid c30¥!  A noisey and busy taxi ride to our hostel, Kelly's Courtyard in one of the hutong districts only two blocks from the Forbidden City.  It really is a lovely and tranquil place with all rooms facing into a central courtyard.  A real oasis.  We both had long showers (needed after the train journey) and Simon shaved off 6 days of stubble before we headed out into Beijing.  John, the hostel owner, recommended the Beihai Lake area which we walked around (very beautiful helped by a warm and sunny day).  We then went to the Drum and Bell Towers and walked down one of the busy alleyways finding a place to eat on a terrace over looking the street.  We shared a cold (very) chicken dish and a sweet and sour chicken dish.  Some of the dishes on the menu were definitely to adventurous for Di!  These plus two beers cost less than a tenner!  Got the metro back to the hostel which was clean and easy to navigate with all signs and announcements in both Chinese and English.  Went to bed tired after catching up on emails.  Facebook and Google embargoed by Chinese!

Day 10 28/9/2104

Didn't recognise UB at all!  Arrived at 6.04 and looked out to a dreary scene of snow on the ground, mist and horizontal sleet.  Glad to be still in 'bed' seeing our neighbours leave huddled up against the cold.  As we moved out of the station all we saw was endless new builds, a mixture of concrete Russian style tower blocks, fancy glass buildings and increasing as we moved further out lots of gers.  We treated ourselves to breakfast in the Mongolian restaurant car of fried egg and bread.  Snow had filled the gaps between the carriages making it an interesting walk to get there.  The rest of the day was spent passing over a misty dreary Gobi desert with not much to see.  Simon was starting to miss the trees and wanting the journey to end.  Diane however was thrilled to spot a camel or two every few hours!  The highlight was dinner in the restaurant car served by smiling hosts followed by the what had become customary Chinese beer and vodka back in our compartment.  The weather had improved and we had a beautiful red sunset.  The boarder controls out of Mongolia and into China were easy compared to the experience of the night before.  Although the wait at the Chinese boarder was extremely long due to the need to change the bogies to enable the train to go from the wider Russian tracks to the narrower Chinese ones we were entertained with the joys of Auld Lang Syne being piped across the station!  Russian tracks and trains are apparently wider than anywhere else in the world to enable them to carry more freight.  The change involved each carriage being separated, lifted up, the old bogie pushed out, the new one slid under for the carriage to be lowered onto it and rejoined to the rest of the train.  A lot of stunting and pushing!  We finally went to sleep at midnight to the noise of the Chiness guards drinking, smoking and playing cards.  They must be glad to be nearly home.  Our friend Lee chatted during the day about footfall, Bejing and his home and supplied us with copious amounts of Chinese green tea.  What a nice guy.  Anyway we'll be waking up to Northern China tomorrow.  Wondered what that will bring?

Day 9 27/9/2014

Slept through 6am stop at Irkutsk (Simon especially disappointed as always had a wish to go there but sure view would be same as every other town - dreary Russian/soviet station).  Woke a few hours later to see we had a few new passengers in our carriage: 2 English and 1 Brazilian in one compartment and 2 Romainian guys joining the English guy in another.  Train reaches shores of Lake Baikal, largest fresh water lake in the world.  The next five hours are spent following it's shoreline: cloudy day so not as blue waters as described in guide book.  Surrounded by mountains and customary grim Russian towns.  Arrive mid afternoon at Ulan Ude, large sprawling city with usual mixture of shacks, derelict factories, lots of old, new and being built tower blocks which would not be out of place in any British city.  The newly built blocks seem to be of the type we are now demolishing in the UK.  Let's hope they have less asbestos.  Just after it gets dark arrive at Russian boarder.  Grim faced (stereotypical) customs officers and boarder guards join the train including dog. Long check of our compartment (looking for illegal persons), our bags (contraband) then passports and visas.  Glad we're legit and innocent as they make you feel the opposite, very uncomfortable and an apt good bye to Russia.  And we never did make her smile!  21km and 30mins later we arrive at the Mongolian boarder.  Same type of unsmiling and stern custom officials and boarder guards join the train ("shut the window blinds") and procedure (passport, bag and compartment search) and 2.5 hrs wait.  It's now midnight (clocks now on Mongolian time Moscow + 4 hrs).  It's odd that it's been Moscow time so far but guess it's the easiest way for them to operate.  Whilst being on dual time for all of the journey still feel tired adjusting.  Both our neighbours are departing at Ulan Baatar.  Over the last few days have become friendly with Lee (Chineese guard).  He collects coins and was looking for some additions.  We added a few UK coins to his collection that he hadn't got already.  He become even more helpful not only in selling us Chinese beer but also helping with Mongolian immigration forms translating from mongolian to Chinese to English using lots of sign language along the way!  We also had a couple of euro coins and a note to give to him and in return we had an extra beer and Chinese green tea (an acquired taste) plus an assurance that when new passengers board at UB they wouldn't be joining our compartment.  Not bad for a few coins.  Nice to connect with a Chinese person.  Rest of guards not particularly engaging and only response is an answer of 10 mins when asking how long we have got at each station (even though some stops are significantly longer).  Talking of UB plan to wake up at 6.30am to see again after being here 5 years ago and if we recognise it or if it's changed much.

Day 8 26/9/2014

And it was until late morning Moscow time or mid afternoon local time (+ 4 hours).  Time now becomes irrelevant as although +7 hrs BST no idea what time it is.  We sleep until it's light (the window blinds are good) and the day's spent reading, looking out of the window and reflecting until it gets dark.  Eat, have a beer, drink vodka, play cards.  Di goes to sleep and Simon reads and then have a restless nights sleep partly due to lack of exercise and hard bed making hips sore.  Gets quite cold over night as we're now in Siberia and at Krasnoyarsk it's minus 3.  The facilities on board are rather limited.  Luckily (?) the quality of food is reducing the need to visit!  Watching the line pass by between your legs is slightly disturbing! The view out of the window is trees, trees, long train going the other way (Russia apparently has more rail freight than the rest of the world combined and all passenger trains can only go at the same speed), trees, trees, more trees, train, trees, trees, trees......... At least there is now a heavy frost on the trees making them look even more picturesque.  It's so thick it looks like it's snowed.  Off to sleep dreaming of trees and hoping no party tonight!

Day 7 25/92014

Nothing! We got off the train at Perm to be told to get straight back on again.  Rest of the day was uneventful, lots of trees!  The major stop of the day was Omsk but not particularly inspiring, just another station platform.  Bought beer from Guard (Lee) and had freeze dried spag bol for dinner washed down by vodka and coke (certainly a good purchase).  Party started next door just as getting head down.  No doubt will be a long and noisy night but at least the morning will be quiet!

Trans-Mongolian Express Day 6 24/09/2014

A fitful nights sleep (Di was certainly glad of our silk sleeping liners!) on a rather hard seat/bed and the noise of the train and two station stops especially Novograd at 2.30am.  The Chinese guards beer certainly helped pass the hours.  Finally got up around 10am and spent most of the day reading, dozing and chilling out.  The weather was great all day.  Landscape mainly trees (birch) all splendid in autumnal colours of red, orange, yellow and brown.  We stopped at two stations, both a bit none descript and whilst you could buy supplies on the platform it wasn't the food vendors we'd imagined. Places we passed were either rural villages or concerte towns.  The countryside was very flat but beautiful however the towns are very drab.  Sunset was stunning with huge orange globe.  On the train we're on Moscow time but as we're already plus two hours it's dark by 18.30.  'Restaurant' car is disappointing, small and not the hub/hive of activity expected.  Food expensive (500r/£8 for simple meal) and a rather miserable Russian lady in charge: will have to get her to smile at least once before she leaves us at the Mongolian boarder.  Thanks to Dan & Dawn's for their pot noodle tip - I think we'll certainly be 'enjoying' a few of them on route!  The other passengers in our carriage are three young eurpoeans (two German and one sweddish) on one side and two sweddish couples on the other.  Further along a Dutch Mum and daughter and then one guy (think he's English) on his own.  Given the size of the compartments we're very lucky to have one to ourselves.  We seem to have done a good job in filling it out already.  Stopping at Perm soon before off to bed.  Let's see what it brings.

Reflections on Moscow (Simon)

We both enjoyed Moscow and said that we would certainly like to come back here again, potentially combining a trip to St Petersburg too. Our reflections of the place are as follows

• Very clean - they even washed the streets 3 or 4 times a day!
• No litter either - very orderley - must be ingrained in all as part of their communist past?
• Very friendly people despite the Russian reputation of being miserable and un welcoming (except the bank teller who charged us a 10% fee to get change from a 5000 rouble note which we had just got out of their ATM - must be an Aeroflot air hostess in a prevoius life)
• Very beautiful city especially around the Kremlin, Red Square, Bolshoi etc
• Very, very expensive place especially in restaurants (you could blow £100 easily on a one course meal with wine!) Guess why there are more billionaires in Moscow than any other city in the world!
• Despite the cost both the Russian and Western food was of good quality and tasty
• Very confusing place as cryllic alphabet is not easy to decipher ane outside tourist areas no conversion into Roman alphabet
• Learnt four Russian words: Privet (hi), Spa Siba (thanks), Pa Ya Loost (Please) and most importantly Piva (Beer)!!! 

Moscow (Day 2 to Day 5) 20/9/14 to 23/9/14 (Simon) PART TWO

Still getting the hang of "blogging" hence premature end to last blog!! (Also still learning how to post pictures so may have to just do this via FB at the moment

Anyway yes we went to Kazanskiy station instead of Yarolavskiy. At least they are near each other so we decided to get a taxi rather than trying to navigate what we found was a very confusing metro system (everything is in the Russian alphabet - Cryllic with no equivalent translation into our Roman one). That evening went to the traditional type of Russian cafe in the other large department store (GUM) off Red Square. More like Soviet than Russian as very clinical and stark but the food was simple, tasty and for Moscow cheap

•  Day 5 23/09/14

In the morning went to visit Lenin's tomb. Nearly didn't get in as something had occurred in Red Square but after they cordoned it off, we were allowed in. It was quite surreal seeing Lenin, mummified body. Apparently to keep it restored they wash it down every 3 days and then was it in chemicals every month. One hell of a job to be on your CV! Later went to the newly built major Orthodox cathedral, Christ the Saviour. Stalin has the original one demolished in the 30's, Kruschev then built a swimming pool on the site and then after the fall of the Soviet Union a new one was built in the same design as the original 16th Century one which was completed in 2010. Rest of the day hung around at the hotel lobby for a taxi pick up at 2130 to go to the (correct) train station for the Trans Mongolian. Very excited but a little trepidation as what to expect. Found the right platform and waited in the coffee shop for the 2345 departure of our Chinese train bound for Beijing. The compartment was quite small but snug, so after a couple of bottles of Chinese beer, sold by a very entrepreneurial guard for a reasonable 100 roubles each we bedded down for our first night on the train.

Moscow (Day 2 to Day 5) 20/9/14 to 23/9/14 (Simon)

• Day 2 20/9/14

1055 flight from Heathrow to Moscow Domodedovo airport. Long delay at immigration and visa control at Moscow; nobody smiles. However got bags immediately and jumped on the easy to find airport express into Moscow, Pavelesky station. Arrived in the dark so when left station was a bit confusing but got our bearings ok and after 10 mins walk found our hotel, The Mercure. Went straight out and found a nearby restaurant for a tasty lamb meal which was reasonably  priced meal apart from the chepeast wine which was £60; ouch and wont be doing that again as all our money will be blown by Xmas and we'll be coming home!

• Day 3 21/9/14

Lovely sunny day. Spent the morning in Red Square, then the Kremlin, Lunch @ Chips whihc was next to the Bolshoi ballet (no tickets available for 4 months!), took in the city on the mandatory red tour bus. Early dinner and early night as whacked - too much sightseeing!

• Day 4 22/9/14

Overslept to 1045 as forgot to set the alarm; must have needed it! Spent the day in St Basil's Cathedral, then went to the large state department store (makes Harrods seem small) called HVM to buy some mugs and cutlery for the train and decided to head off to the station we will depart from tomorrow for a reccee. Worryingly couldnt find the platform we needed for tomorrow and nobody either could speak English or were willing to help. It was only when we got back to the hotel and re read the information that we found out we went to the wrong station, Levostky instead of