Diane's Birthday Lake Tekapo Day 159 24/02/2015

After a leisurely breakfast we set off from Akaroa heading towards Lake Tekapo where we were planning to spend the night. The journey back along Banks Peninsular was lovely. We headed west and then rejoined the main highway south. The highway was quite busy with numerous roadworks but at least they didn't just close the road completely! We crossed over New Zealand's longest bridge before leaving the highway and heading inland towards the Southern Alps. Apparently the rugged and untamed landscape around this area features heavily in Lord of the Rings. We passed through Geraldine and onto Fairlie where we stopped for a lovely lunch at the Eat Deli & Bar. The food reminded us of eating at Earthy, one of our favourite cafes in Edinburgh. From here the road ascends to Burke's Pass and open landscapes to reach Lake Tekapo. We checked in at the campsite which has fabulous views across the turquoise water and the backdrop of rolling hills. We walked up Mt John, a hill top nearby which houses New Zealand's largest observatory. The whole area has been declared an International Dark Sky Reserve, one of only five in the world. From here we continued on along the hillside with views of Alexandrina and McGregor Lakes and the snow capped mountains of the Southern Alps before returning via the lake waterfront. The intense blue colour of the lake is due to the sediment in the water which retracts the sunlight and gives it it's brilliant colour. Despite it's appeal we both decided it was probably too cold for a dip (we are at 800m!) and headed back to our van to chill out in the evening sun. We had a lovely thai green curry for dinner, cooked by Simon, washed down by a quality bottle of Hawkes Bay Merlot to celebrate Diane's birthday.

Enjoying birthday lunch

Lake Tekapo from the campsite

The view from Mt John

Heading along the trail 

Having a birthday rest 

Looking across the the Southern Alps 

Akaroa Day 158 23/02/2015

The plan for today was to drive south down the east coast to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula stopping off at Christchurch along the way. We set off just before 9am to give ourselves time for a stroll around New Zealand's second largest city. As we were heading down the coast from Kaikoura we spotted dolphins out to sea. We guessed they were dusky dolphins which are often seen near here. We stopped and enjoyed be entertained by their acrobatics before continuing south. The road goes inland from here passing through arid landscapes and more wineries. There are lots of opportunities to stop off at beaches and nature reserves along the way but we decided to continue and get to Christchurch. We headed out towards the airport initially to the Apollo Campervan depot to replace some of the broken items in our van before parking up at Hagley Park next to the Botanic Gardens where we had lunch in our van before wandering into the city (England are playing Scotland in the world cricket club cup today in Christchurch but Simon didn't have any desire to go after Friday's abysmal performance). Christchurch was devastated in the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes which left 186 people dead. The city is still struggling to regenerate itself from the impact with much of the centre looking like a huge empty car park. Whilst work is clearly ongoing to rebuild the scale of evidence didn't appear extensive and it's interesting to read that the rebuild plans span 20 years. We walked passed Cathedral Square with the remains of Christchurch Cathedral which was badly damaged in the February 2011 earthquake and subsequent earthquakes in June and December 2011. A transitional cathedral, known as the Cardboard Cathedral, now serves as the city's temporary cathedral. Nearby there's a temporary memorial opposite where the CTV building once stood, 186 seats, for the victims of the earthquakes. After a few hours we headed back through the gardens to our van and continued south to Banks Peninsular. Captain Cook sighted the peninsular in 1770 and, thinking it was an island, named it after the naturalist Sir Joseph Banks. The views were beautiful as we drove along Summit Road which goes around the edge of one of the original craters before dropping down into Akaroa. After checking in at the campsite we walked down to the town and had a stroll along the prom. The French settled here once and the town strives to re-create the feel of a French provisional village. We even saw people playing boules on the edge of the cricket green. We wandered back up the hill to the campsite and enjoyed beer overlooking the sea before heading inside for dinner.

Dolphins at last...

Christchurch's tramway

Christchurch Cathedral

New Regent Street 

Transitional Cathedral 

186 Seats 

Banks Peninsular from Summit Road 

The view from the campsite 

Akaroa Beach

French Bay 

Kaikoura Day 157 22/02/2015

We woke to torrential rain pounding down on the camper van. Luckily despite low cloud it was relatively clear at sea level and we hoped our whale watching trip was still on. It did put a stop to the planned walk around the peninsular so instead we had a leisurely start to the day and then went to the supermarket to stock up on provisions. We phoned the tour operator who confirmed trips were still running and were actually able to bring ours forward from 3pm to 1.45pm (we guessed that some people must have cancelled due to the weather). By lunchtime the rain had stopped and after a bit to eat at our van we walked the short distance to the Whale Watching centre. It's actually next to the campsite but across a railway so the safest bet is to walk around and use the bridge. The safety briefing didn't actually start until 2.15pm so we had coffee and then watched a video on whales to pass the time. After the briefing we were driven around the peninsular to where the boat was docked. They are apparently purpose built boats and can travel up to 35 knots (c50kpm). The sea was calm as we set off in search of whales. Male sperm whales stay in the shores here all year round and that's what we were hoping to see. They're the largest toothed predator and can live up to 60 years. After a short ride we stopped along with two other boats and a helicopter circling overhead. It wasn't long before we saw the blow hole from a whale and it coming to the surface to breathe. It's amazing to see such huge creatures. This one, Tuka, is nearly 18m in length, the same length as the boat we were on. After watching it empty and refill it's lungs for about 10 minutes it dived back into the depths of the ocean, it's tail fin high in the air and then cutting through the water. From here we travelled for another 15 minutes to see another whale, Tiaki, come to the surface to breathe which had been spotted by the helicopter. Along the way we saw lots of birdlife including numerous albatross. The dolphins were apparently much further down the coast so we set off in search of what else we could see. Diane thought she saw a dolphin only to be told it was a blue fin shark. It was about 1.5m and whilst they typically feed on small fish and squid Diane was glad she hadn't seen it before she went for a swim yesterday! On the way back to the harbour we watched a video which depicted what the ocean bed would look like if you removed all the water. It was amazing to see and a good way to end a great trip. We can now add whales and sharks to the myriad of wildlife we've seen since we've been in Australasia. Back at our van we had dinner and planned out the next few days before retiring to bed.

Tuka coming up for air 

Our fellow whale watchers on the same boat as we were on 

Going down.....

Looking for whales

A blue fin shark 

A rather nonchalant albatross 

The campsite at Kaikoura 

Kaikoura Day 156 21/02/2015

We got up at 7.30am, had breakfast and packed up before driving the very short distance to the ferry terminal and joining the long line of camper vans all waiting to sail over to the south island. It was a bit windy and we were both hoping that the sailing would be relatively calm (not least because we'd probably had one too many sweet sherries last night!). We were late boarding, finally setting off c30mins after the departure time and were soon heading out of the harbour and into the Cook Strait, notorious for rough seas but luckily for us was relatively calm and our stomachs were helped by bacon butties. You can see land on the south island before the north island finally disappears as you enter Marlborough Sounds. It really is a lovely journey and we were both glad we decided to take the ferry. The ferry docks at Picton, a small town at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. We were planning to stay at Kaikoura and set off south along the east coast passing through Blenheim and its world famous wineries. The landscape is extremely arid and we were both surprised that the vines survive in such dry conditions. As we drove along we could see mountain ranges to the west and south of us, hopefully destinations for later in our trip. Over the passed few months we've kayaked and taken boat trips to see seals. As we drove along the coast road we passed a huge colony sunning themselves on the rocky shore line before finally arriving at Kaikoura. It's a small peninsular town backed by the Seaward Kaikoura mountain range and, as a result of a unique ocean environment, is home to a variety of marine wildlife including whales, dolphins and seals. We both want to go whale watching so as soon as we arrived we headed to the main tour operator to book a boat trip for tomorrow. Fingers crossed for good weather and calm seas. After checking in at the campsite we had a wander into the town. The weather was lovely and the sun very strong and we decided that a quick dip in the sun was not to be missed so we headed back to collect our swim wear. The beach here is pebbles and it took all your strength to stay upright as the sea swell pushed the pebbles around nearly taking you off your feet. It was a bit cold but lovely and clear. After a quick dip we treated ourselves to fish and chips on the beach looking out to sea and the expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, watching the cloud formations and the sun go down behind us, followed by ice cream on the way back to the van. Hopefully tomorrow's diet will be a bit healthier!

Our ferry to the South Island

In the long line of camper vans 

Leaving the North Island 

Entering Marlborough Sounds 

Having a dip in the sea at Kaikoura 

Interislander Ferry Day 155 20/02/2015

We were moving from our campsite at Lower Hutt (described as Wellington but actually about 10km outside the city) into Wellington today to be both near to the cricket ground and also the ferry terminal. After breakfast, watched over by the resident ducks (makes a change from possums), we packed up and drove the short distance into the city. Lonely Planet comment that the campsite 'in reality it's simply a waterfront carpark' and they weren't wrong but it was very convenient. Lesley (who'd flown down from Auckland yesterday) and Richard (who'd been in Christchurch and Nelson watching the cricket) came along to meet us and we wandered along the prom stopping for coffee before heading to Te Papa, New Zealand's national museum. It's spread over six floors and with only a couple of hours before Simon and Richard were heading off to the cricket we decided to visit the natural history exhibit which includes the creation of New Zealand, it's volcanos and impact of before going to see Maori artefacts and exhibits on the early settlers. It's a great place, very interactive and is free. We wandered back along the prom buying lunch from one of the street stalls before Simon and Richard headed off. Lesley and Diane had decided to take the cable car up to the botanical gardens. The cable car is one of Wellington's most famous attractions with the little red car clanking it's way up the steep slope. They had a look around the small museum that tells the cable cars story since it was built in 1902 before setting off to stroll around the gardens. You get lovely city views from a number of vantage points. New Zealand's capital is certainly an attractive city with bushy hillsides around a sweeping harbour with downtown being compact and looking very vibrant. The ladies then stopped for refreshments near the rose garden before heading back into the city. From here they walked around some of the historic buildings including Parliament House (affectionately known as the beehive), the train station and a number of art deco buildings. After they had just set off to go back to the prom for a drink Lesley got a call from Richard to say that Simon and he had just left the cricket after sheer humiliation at England's abysmal performance. Luckily when we all met up the guys seemed to have gone passed the depression state and where both almost in a state of hysteria at the spectacle they had just witnessed. We all enjoyed drinks in the evening sunshine before heading off to find somewhere to eat. Most restaurants were busy due to the early finish of the cricket match  but we found an Ethiopian restaurant place and as none of us had eaten in one before we thought we'd give it a go. The food was nice and it was good that we had all been able to enjoy dinner together. Afterwards we said our goodbyes with Lesley and Richard heading back to their apartment and we went in search of our van in the car park!

The resident ducks

 Wellington from the botanical gardens 

At least the seats were good and the sun was shining.... 

Wellington Day 154 19/02/2015

A bit of a non event day today as we left New Plymouth at 9am to travel to Wellington. Before heading south we drove to the coastline just north of New Plymouth to see the Te Rewa Rewa bridge (its shape is said to invoke the wind), which was the start of the coast walkway we did yesterday. There were lots of birds riding the surf (mainly black cormorants fighting over any fish they caught) as well as someone on their paddle board. We then drove back through New Plymouth and continued on the Surf Highway around the coast, catching glimpses of Mt Taranaki through the swirling cloud as we traversed round its huge base. Interesting we didn't see any surf despite the name of the route! We stopped for fuel in Wanganui and not long after pulled over at a lay by at the road for lunch. We headed south then on Highway 1 towards Wellington and decided to cut across a mountain pass to Highway 2, before continuing south to our campsite at Lower Hutt, which is across Wellington Harbour from the city. After having another dinner cooked on the bbq, we spoke to Richard and Lesley to confirm where we would meet them in Wellington in the morning before retiring for the night.

Te Rewa Rewa bridge 

Mt Taranaki 

Looking out to the Tasman Sea

New Plymouth Day 153 18/02/2015

After two mountain and one cycling back to back days we decided we needed a rest day today. We had a leisurely start enjoying breakfast outside in the sunshine before doing a few chores, catching up on emails, planning a few things for the South Island and starting to think about South America. Given we didn't eat out yesterday we decided to walk into New Plymouth for lunch. The campsite is about 4km out of the town which we walked to along the lovely coastal walkway in the warm sunshine enjoying the views out to sea. New Plymouth is the only international deep water port in this part of New Zealand. You can see the port as you walk along which unfortunately includes a rather ugly power station. We'd seen what looked like a very nice cafe in Lonely Planet and decided to go there for lunch, only to find it was back near the campsite so headed back this time walking through the town. It was certainly a good recommendation and we enjoyed quiche and salad before heading back. The rest of the afternoon was spent chilling out in the sunshine. Simon cooked steak and sausages on the bbq (the facilities on all the campsites are really good) and then it was an early night. Tomorrow we're driving south to Wellington which is c370km from here.

The coastal walkway with New Plymouth, the port and Sugar Loaf islands in the background

The main high street 

Mt Taranaki Day 152 17/02/2015

The plan for today was to walk up Mt Taranaki, formerly known as Egmont, a classic 2518m volcanic cone that dominates the landscape around New Plymouth. It last erupted over 350 years ago and is apparently overdue another one! It took a while for us to get going in the morning, not least because we switched the alarm off by mistake rather than putting it one snooze but by 8am had arrived at North Egmont visitors centre, the start of the summit track. After signing the register we set off. It's a 12.6km return route with 1572m of ascent (basically straight up!). The first 1.5 hours is a walk up a 4WD track through lovely bush to a privately owned hut. It's known locally as the 'Puffer" due to the incline! From here the route continues up Hongi Valley and then climbs a heap of steps to 1950m where you meet the scree slopes of the North Ridge. It's nearly 200m up the scree, two steps forward one step back, until you finally reach the rocky rib know as the Lizard. We'd accidentally veered off the route a little bit and headed up a very step scree run before finally rejoining the main track. Luckily for us the mist had come in a little and blocked the sun making it a bit more bearable and obliterating the view of the summit which was still a long way off. We continued on up the Lizard, finally stopping for a breather at Diane's request, and up to the entrance of the crater and a small snow field. From here you head up the west rim and clamber up rocks to finally reach the summit. The area is sacred to Maori and walkers are asked to respect the mountain by not standing directly on the summit peak. We obliged although a number of other people made straight for the short rock boulder at the top. We'd seen a number of people on the way up and there were several groups on the summit when we arrived but nothing like the volume of traffic at Tongariro. The summit was lovely and clear with an inversion around most of mountain with the exception of south east where you could see out to the Tasman Sea. We sat enjoying the views having lunch before setting off on the long descent along the same route. As we headed down the scree the mist came in again and we heard a helicopter to the north of where we were, hovering for a period of time before flying off. Later we were chatting to a guy who said it was a rescue helicopter. Hopefully nothing too serious. We stopped for second lunch, and to empty our boots of stones, at the hut before the final leg back down the "Puffer" to the visitors centre. We arrived in time for tea and savoury scones before driving back to the campsite. We were both filthy from the dust and in desperate need of a shower but treated ourselves to beer first to help celebrate another fabulous day in the mountains. We'd decided to go out for pizza and, after asking for recommendations from the guy at the campsite, headed off to a local pizzeria to find it only did takeaway. Simon headed back to the campsite to get the van whilst Diane ordered and we enjoyed pizza alfresco before heading off to bed exhausted. Tomorrow we really are going to have a rest day!

Mt Taranaki - 12.6km and 1572m to the summit!

 Heading up the 'Puffer' 

 

The long and steep steps

At last off the scree and heading up the Lizard 

Clambering around the rocks 

Reaching the crater and small snow field 

Finally reaching top and clear blue skies  

Mt Taranaki summit

Summit panorama