Our Great Adventure: Milford Sound 166 3/03/2015

We'd seen a walk that we were keen to do before we left Te Anau and did wonder about whether to do it today. The weather was a bit mixed when we woke and we decided to drive up towards Milford Sound where the walk starts and see what the conditions looked like before making a final decision. By the time we packed up (it took a bit longer with very achy arms!) and left the campsite it was nearly 9am. The drive north goes through rolling farmland by the side of Lake Te Anau before entering the Eglinton Valley and crossing the boundary into Fiordland National Park. The views of the snow capped mountains either side of the road are stunning. After passing Lake Gunn the road starts to climb through the valley passing numerous bowls to reach the start of the walk to Gertrude Saddle and on to Barrier Knob. It's an unmarked route and with the cloud still low and the rivers full from the rain over the last two days we decided to continue on to Milford Sound and hope for better conditions tomorrow. Not far from here the road reaches the Homer Tunnel, framed by a massive high walled, ice caved amphitheatre. Opened to traffic in 1954 the 1270m long tunnel is one way, descending to emerge at the head of Cleddau Valley and more amazing views, including Mt Tutoko which at 2746m is Fiordland's highest peak. We continued down the valley to finally reach Milford Sound. It's stunning with sheer rock cliffs and dark waters. Around half a million people visit each year with most arriving via the multitude of bus tours and it certainly lacked the peace and tranquility of Doubtful Sound. Despite this the journey here certainly makes it a worth while visit. After lunch in the cafe we had a stroll along the shoreline. We read about how the first western settler here, Donald Sutherland (wonder where he came from?) and his wife set up a guest house for visitors from the steam ships and also walkers. It certainly would have been a challenge to live here without road access although no risk of running out of water. Back in Te Anau we stocked up on provisions and then went to the local cinema to watch Ata Whenua, a film of Fiordland through the seasons. It was excellent although we both commented that it would have been good to have included commentary on the history, flora, fauna, locations etc. Back at the campsite we had dinner and then headed off to bed in anticipation of good weather for tomorrow.