Our Great Adventure: Separation Point Day 179 16/03/2015

It's six months since we packed in our jobs in the UK and Diane woke to the chilling thought that if she'd opted for a six month sabbatical she'd be heading back to work today! The forecast for today hadn't looked too good, with the affects of cyclone Pam predicted to hit, however we woke to blue skies. We were really keen to walk some of the Abel Tasman Coast Track and opted for the section at the far north end which we thought would be less crowded and was nearest to where we had stayed overnight. We drove from Pohara to Totaranui, initially on a sealed road and then on a gravel track which luckily leads to a campsite and therefore meets the terms and conditions of the campervan rental. We set off walking north from the carpark, both finding it difficult to get into a rhythm still feeling tired after our kayaking yesterday. Initially the track heads up through the forest and we ambled along listening to the birdsong. The track then descends to Anapei Bay, a beautiful golden beach split in two by unusual rock outcrops. The route is well serviced by campsites and facilities and there were a few tents pitched near the beach. As we headed round the rock outcrops we pick up a strong smell of decaying flesh. A dead whale was on the beach. We wondered if it had been one of the whales stranded on Farewell Spit a few weeks ago, swept ashore by the tides. Nearly 200 whales were beached, refloated only be get beached again. Eventually rescuers managed to refloat 64 with the others perishing. From here the track heads inland and then drops back down to Mutton Cove, another beautiful golden, sweeping beach. We walked along the beach and then continued on to Separation Point, the granite headland that separates Tasman Bay and Golden Bay. Farewell Spit was visible in the distance to the northwest. We climbed down to the Spit and found a sheltered spot out of the wind for lunch, watching the seals on the rocks nearby. The Department of Conservation are attempting to reintroduce a colony of gannets to the area and the project includes plastic birds and loudspeakers pumping out gannets calling. At first sight we did actually think the birds were real! After a leisurely lunch in the sunshine we returned by the same route, deviating to walk around the headland as we approached Totaranui and dropping down onto the beach where we enjoyed a paddle in the sea before heading back across the campsite to our van. Ryan had told us about a local micro brewery nearby to Pohara, The Mussel Inn, and we decided to head there and try out the beer. We both ordered Captain Cooker Manuka Beer, inspired by the first beer to be brewed in New Zealand by Captain Cook in 1773, flavoured with freshly picked tips of the Manuka tree and with a very unique tate but totally refreshing. We'd spotted a campsite just down the road from the inn and we headed there intending to stay overnight however the wifi wasn't the one we've bought so we drove the short distance back to Pohara and stayed a second night, this time avoiding the premium for the beach front location! The campervan had got extremely sandy from the gravel track so we took advantage of the boat ramp and Simon gave it a good washing down before parking up on site. We were both feeling quite tired and decided to treat ourselves to dinner at the Penguin Cafe (there's a 2m high blue penguin outside!) and then headed back to the campsite for an early night.