Potosi Day 252 28/05/2015

We needed to be at the tour company by 0815 so it was an early breakfast and brisk walk up through the town (well as much as we could at 4000m). The streets were incredibly quiet due to a local strike although it was a bit random as to what was open/running and what wasn't. The local buses certainly weren't which made for a slightly more pleasant walk. Ore is still mined from Cerro Rico with miners working in appalling conditions. The cooperatives are working mines and described as fairly nightmarish places. Mining is Bolivia's key industry and we both felt that we wanted to visit the mines knowing it was likely to be one of our most memorable experiences but not necessarily for the right reasons. We were with a group of 10 other westerners and set off in a rust bucket of a van to visit the miners markets where we purchased gifts for the miners, writing pads, juice and coca leaves (illegal in most other south american countries). We also got a brief insight into the miners lives which appeared to evolve around chewing coca leaves and drinking alcohol which after tasting it can only be described as meths. From here we continued in the van, amazed that it managed to get up the hill, to a yard where we were kitted out with overalls, wellies, helmets, torches and face masks before driving a little further to where the miners where separating out the minerals from the extracted rock before it was shipped overseas for further processing. The conditions here were grim with sulphuric acid being used in the process and no protection for the workers. Back in the van and a short distance further we came to the entrance of the mine. We set off into one of the tunnels, stooping as we walked along to avoid banging our heads on the numerous rocks, pipes and bits of wood used to shore up the tunnel. The floor was uneven despite being fitted with rails for moving the trolleys along. It soon warmed up as we headed further in. We stopped to hear about the miners god, who is actually the Andean Devil, who they pray to every Friday. Further into the mine the tunnel split in two and we dropped down to reach a further shaft. At this point Diane decided it was far enough, the dust and size of the tunnel putting her off continuing. Simon continued whilst Diane waited by the side of the main tunnel with the guides assistant. Numerous trolleys were pushed along the tracks, both full and empty, by stooped miners, the full ones weighing 2 tonnes and frequently having to be lifted back on the tracks by the workers. After waiting for over an hour and no sight of the group they headed out of the tunnel. Simon continued to descend down the shaft mainly on his backside, trying to keep up with the guide Pedro. At an intersection, we descended a rickety ladder to enter another horizontal shaft. Here we walked further into the mine, all the time the temperature was rising and apart from our head torches, it was pitch black. At another intersection we turned left, then right, then left and we were all glad that Pedro knew the way and more importantly the way out. We came to a very small hole in the side of the rock and three of us followed Pedro to squeeze through it to come across 2 miners having a break from digging. They were 2 of a gang of 4, the other 2 had not turned up for work that day. As it's a cooperative then there is no issue with this as the two who were working would share the spoils of the day between them. The miners usually work 8 to 10 hours a day in horrendous conditions; we all commented that next time we have a bad day at the office, we will remember this moment as an example of how much worse it could be. After sharing some juice with the miners, we descended down a ladder into a black shaft, into what only can be described as the gates of hell. We managed to squeeze back through the hole and continued along the shaft looking for more miners. We saw groups hacking away at the ore, others helping to arrange pulleys to lift the extract and others pushing the trolleys full of what they mined along the tracks. Simon tried to help the 2 miners pushing one along the tracks but after a couple of minutes with his shoulder behind the wheel he gave up exhausted watching in awe as they disappeared into the distance. By this time we all had enough of being down there, hot, sweaty and filthy so we were glad when Pablo told us we were to head out. Being 400m below the surface it still took 30 minutes of stooped walking, with much banging of heads on the low, uneven roof (thank goodness for the helmets) before we felt to cool air and then growing sight of sunlight ahead, before emerging into the sunshine, relieved and thankful to be above ground. The conditions down there were abysmal and very distressing; it was bad enough for current day miners who "chose" to be down there but we could only imagine the horror for the slaves of previous centuries press ganged into it. When Simon resurfaced he went back to the place where the van had dropped us off, and was pleased and thankful to find Diane had already come out of that ghastly place. With the exception of the odd haircut is was probably the longest time we've spent apart since Simon went to watch the cricket in Wellington! We were both very grimy, especially Simon, and it was amazing to see how much dust was on the inside of the face masks. We returned to the centre of Potosi and went in search of another cafe for lunch, failed to find it so headed back to the place we'd been to yesterday. The plaza was unbelievably quiet and we sat in the square enjoying the afternoon sun, grateful to be above ground. One of Potosi's other main attractions is the Casa Nacional de la Monede and we headed there to join an afternoon tour at 1430. It was all a bit vague at first but soon we were able to purchase tickets and were joined by a guide. The building was constructed between 1753 and 1773 to control the minting of colonial coins (the first mint was established in Potosi between 1572 and 1575). It's now one of the best museums in south america and houses religious art, ancient coins and wooden mining machines in it's restored buildings. Because of the altitude the wooden machines have been perfected preserved. It was fascinating to hear about the history of the coins and the role Potosi played in their production. We also understood why the US dollar and UK pound have the symbols that have, all descended from the Potosi mint. It is fascinating how everyday symbols come alive with meaning thanks to history! The tour latest for 1.5 hours after which we headed back to the hotel for a well needed shower to wash off the grim from the mines. In the evening we went to cafe 4060m for dinner, a lively little place with a nice atmosphere. There was a mixture of locals and tourists and we enjoyed a fine meal, washed down with an excellent glass of Bolivian red, reflecting on a very interesting and, certainly for the morning, harrowing day.

Separating the minerals 

Silver on the right and zinc on the left 

Looking down over Potosi 

Cerro Rico and the cooperative mine 

The entrance to the mine 

The Andean Devil and mining god 

The trolleys used to take the rock out of the mine 

Coming across a gang of two miners 

Flushed from the heat 

Squeezing through the tiny gaps 

Giving a helping hand to push the trolleys 

With a 2 tonne load it took a huge effort to move them along 

Nearing the exit and daylight 

With Pedro, guide and ex miner 

The lovely little cafe on the main square 

Plaza 10 Novembre 

The main cathedral 

More of the main square ... and below 

Casa Nacional de la Moneda 

The main banqueting hall