Our Great Adventure: Buenos Aires Day 223 29/04/2015

We originally planned to head north from Buenos Aires, through Uruguay to Iguazu Falls and then either travel across northern Argentina or through Paraguay to Salta in northwest Argentina. After a bit more research we've decided to fly from Iguazu to Cordoba and then head north from there. Whilst there is an appeal to go to Paraguay, as its not on the beaten path, we preferred to go and see Cordoba, as Argentina's second city seems a very exciting place. Anyway we may 'pop' into Paraguay on our way to Iguaza if we decide to go and visit some Jesuit missions on a day trip. Yesterday we tried to book the flight online however the website crashed before we got confirmation of the booking. After breakfast at the hostel we walked to the Aerolinas Argentina offices about 7 blocks away, to check whether the booking had been made and, if need be rebook the tickets. From here we headed back to the hostel with the plan to join the walking tour around downtown Buenos Aires. It started to rain as we walked back to find the tour cancelled. Clearly a fair weather only activity! We used the time to do a bit more planning. It really is amazing how much time it takes to try to work out how to get around, book transport and accommodation. In the early afternoon we headed out, stopped for lunch of empanadas and pie at a local cafe and then walked to Plaza de Mayo. The square is home to the president's offices (from where Eva Peron preached to her thousands of supporters) and Catedral Metropolitana which contains the tomb of General Jose de San Martin, Argentina's most revered hero (we'd seen his statue in San Martin de los Andes). There's a flame outside keeping his spirit alive. The 'Madras de la Plaza de Mayo' (mothers of the disappeared) continue to protest for social-justice causes in the square alongside the Piramide de May obelisk that marks the first anniversary of independence from Spain. We visited the Cabildo museum with scanty exhibits on Argentina's tumultuous history before heading back to the hostel, stopping off for coffee on route. Buenos Aires is very much a metropolitan city but with it's dark side. Cracked sidewalks, graffiti and rubbish abound even in the wealthy neighbourhoods, with poverty and beggars evident. Despite that it is one of our favourite South American cities. In the evening we were picked up just after 2000 to go to a tango show at Cafe de los Angelitos. Unlike the hostel where we definitely increase the average age (fairly significantly) we must have been amongst the youngest at the show! Dinner was served in the same room that the show took place in, an OK affair made better by unlimited wine. The show itself was spectacular with all types of tango including more modern tunes like Bajofondo. We were both really pleased that we decided to go and thoroughly enjoyed the evening.