Our Great Adventure: Torres del Paine National Park/Lago Grey Day 214 20/04/2015

We had an early 6.30am breakfast at the b&b, left our big bags and then walked up to get the bus to the national park. A number of different companies all carry walkers in and out, co-ordinated with the catamaran and shuttle buses and we spotted most of our fellow ferry travellers on one of the buses. We were planning to walk the 'W' (named for the rough approximation to the letter that it traces out on the map) from west to east. On route to the park entrance we passed gauchos at work moving sheep across the arid landscape, guanaco and rhea. At the entrance we registered and paid our fees (18000 Chilean pesos each), taking in the views of the granite pillars of Torres del Paine which dominate the landscape, before continuing on the bus to Pudeto where the catamaran leaves from to go to Pehoe in the west of the park. The weather was warm and dry although very windy. The forecast was for 100km gusts and whilst we didn't know if they were this strong it certainly was very windy. On board the catamaran we set off across Lago Pehoe, slowing down as we starting to roll and pitch at the same time sailing head on into the wind. Luckily the crossing was only 30 minutes and certainly Diane was glad to disembark at Paine Grande. We found shelter out of the wind by the nearby refugio to sort our packs before setting off to walk up by the side of Lago Grey to Refugio Grey where we planned to stay the night, the western leg of the 'W'. Despite a fire in 2011, accidentally started by a tourist trying to start an illegal fire and burning over 40,000 acres, it's still a beautiful walk with wonderful panoramic views. The wind was full on as we headed up the valley with very little rest-bite (no need for a facial for a few months!). We reached the mirador with knock-down gusts of wind and got our first views of the magnificent Glaciar Grey and the iceberg strewn Lago Grey. From here is a short walk to the refugio where we checked in, dropped off our rucksacks and continued a short distance further to the mirador nearer to the face of the glacier. We both remember being here previously and keen to look back on our photos to see how much the glacier has retreated over the years. The refugio certainly wasn't here although there was a rustic shelter close to the lake shore where you could sleep. Back at the refugio we chilled out in the lovely communal area. It really is a very smart refugio with leather sofas and lovely wooden tables and benches. Over dinner we chatted to an Australian couple who are on a six week holiday in South America. The dorms were so warm neither of us made use of the sleeping bags we'd hired!