Our Great Adventure: Camp Paraiso Day 322 06/08/2015

The hammocks were actually OK although we were all deprived of sleep due to Sergio's incessant snoring. We were amazed to find that the clothes that we'd hung up to dry the previous night were soaking wet. Clearly nothing dries here unless it's in the suns rays. We were both feeling quite jaded and realised that if we were going to make it to the Lost City we needed to slow our pace down. After breakfast we left camp walking steadily upwards through a mix of thick vegetation and also past some pastureland where cattle were kept. We could also see the areas that had been cleared where coca plants grew before the government stamped it (and the guerrillas) out in 2005. We then had the first hard climb of the day, stopping halfway up to enjoy some oranges Gabriel had brought. At this point was a small clearing in the forest and there were at least 2 other groups there of mainly young backpackers - we did feel old! The rest of the climb up was equally tough but at least Gabriel took the lead so the pace was less punishing. At the top of the ridge there was a small shop where we bought more gatorade and enjoyed fresh, juicy pineapple which helped quench our thirst and keep us hydrated. At the top were another group of pink faced people coming the other way so we knew there was a long downhill section to come. On our way down the hard packed mud slopes we passed the Kogui indigenous village, Mutanshi with lots of pigs and piglets running around the straw hut dwellings. We also saw some local children as we passed them crossing a stream. After walking though a hot steamy glade we stopped for lunch at where we will be staying tomorrow evening at Tuzhumake. After the usual fare of meat with salad, boiled potatoes and boiled rice we decided to cool down by swimming in river nearby which was refreshingly cold. It had a large pool which we swam in and laid on the rocks to dry off. At just after 1pm we were on the trail again following the stream before crossing a very rickety bridge to the other bank. From there we slogged up the second large hill of the day, all of our clothes wet through with perspiration. God it was hot and very tough. After cresting the ridge we followed the track down constantly thinking we had to reverse the route in just over 36 hours. For a short period of the descent the thunder rumbled overhead and we had a short, sharp downpour which was very refreshing. We passed another indigenous village, Koskunguena where we stopped for a 10 minute break. We reached a river which needed us to take our boots off the cross and after another 30 minutes arrived at Camp Paraiso, which was our lodgings for the night. The place was still being built in anticipation of the many groups that kept arriving. We "bagged" the best bunks (no hammocks tonight), showered and went to the mess area to wait the 2 hours until dinner at 1930. We were all very tired but looking forward to the short hike tomorrow to reach the Lost City. Despite the fact there were c50 people at the camp, it was very quiet after 2100 as everyone was knackered from a hot, punishing day's hike.