We were up at 0530, had breakfast and left camp Paraiso just after 0645, the last of all the groups to leave. The path followed the banks of Rio Buritaca before crossing over to the other bank where an almost hidden path starts the ascent to Teyuna (Ciudad Perdiad). After climbing over 1200 narrow and slippy steps up to an altitude of 1200 meters we finally reached a clearing with three stone circles. One of the other groups were sat around listening to their guide share the history of the city. As they moved on Gabriel started to do the same, sharing his immense knowledge from over 30 years of guiding. From the initial site we continued up through the terraces. Over 250 have been excavated spread over an area of c2 sq km with many more believed to be hidden under dense vegetation. Very little is actually known about the site and it's former residents. We continued up to La Capilla, the central section where festivals and rituals are believed to have been held. It's set on a ridge with various stone paths leading down to other sectors on the slopes. Although the wooden houses are long gone, the stone structures including the terraces and stairways are in remarkably good shape. Here we encountered the first military presence. They have been stationed here since 2005 when the site reopened to tourists following the kidnapping in 2003 of 8 tourists and their guide. They were held for 3 month by rebels before being released. The scene was surreal, a mystical place of peace and tranquility and the power of government soldiers who camp at the summit. We sat soaking in the views, listening to the sounds of the jungle surrounding us. After welcome treats from Gabriel's bag we headed along further terraces and passed an indigenous village, meeting their local Shaman and parting with 4 COPs each for a bracelet. Most of the indigenous people we met showed no interest in engaging with us and appear quite dismissive of the tourists. No doubt it's a difficult balance to achieve between income and privacy. After a short break at a pool for a welcome swim we headed back down the steep steps and back to camp for an early lunch. From here it was a long walk to camp Tezhumake where we'd stopped for lunch yesterday, with much needed breaks for fresh oranges and gatorade along the way. We finally reached camp in the late afternoon, selected our bunk for the night and went down to the river to cool off. Luckily dinner was quite early and we were soon in our bunks, exhausted from the heat of the day whilst exhilerated after such a magical day.
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| Leaving camp |
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| Boots off to cross Rio Buritaca |
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| The start of over 1200 steps |
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| Reaching the first clearing |
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| The stone terracing in good shape |
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| Paths lead off in all directions |
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| Looking up from La Capilla |
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| The wonderful surroundings of dense jungle |
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| And waterfalls |
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| The military were stationed on the upper slopes |
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| Panoramic with La Capilla in the centre |
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| Looking down onto La Capilla |
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| Exhausted but delighted to have made it |
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| A local indigenous village |
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| Resident Sharman |
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| More steps |
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| And terracing |
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| Luckily the only thing we saw in the undergrowth |
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| Cooling down before the long walk out |
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| Heading back down the steep steps |
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| Fields once cultivated to grow cocaine |
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| This tree was covered in lovely pink flowers |
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| Back over the rickety bridge |
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